Missouri Pacific Box Car 34222

The phone rang.   I answered it knowing it was George Toman.   He was calling from the Collinsville Railway Prototype Modelers (RPM) meet to ask me if I wanted a Missouri Pacific (MP) Sunshine Models 2005 Mini Kit he had found there.   My answer, “Yes.”  The Sunshine Models Mini Kit (SMMK) was to be used with a 1942 design car.  The 1942 design car had a  10” 6” inside height.   An InterMountain Railway Company, kit number 41805-03, provided the needed freight car.

When the Sunshine Mini Kit arrived I examined the contents which contained Sunshine Models Modeling Notes for Missouri Pacific 1942 American Car & Foundry (ACF) Boxcars (Sunshine Models 2005), decals and the following resin castings:  5/5 “W” section ends, Youngstown doors, door stops,  and long solid straight side sill.  The masters for these castings were created by Frank Hodina.  The Sunshine Models Modeling Notes suggested using a Red Caboose straight panel roof and Apex metal running boards to improve the model.

The prototype cars built by American Car and Foundry using the 1942 design with 10’ 6” Interior Height were delivered to the Missouri Pacific (MP) in April-May 1942.  The MP assigned the ACF built delivered cars to MP series 34113-34262.  The box cars had 5/5 “W” section ends, Youngstown doors, and long straight solid side sill between bolsters.  Other features included Ajax handbrake, eight rung ladders, Apex Tri-Lok  running boards and brake step.   The Sunshine Modeling Notes contain excellent Ed Hawkins black and white photos of MP 34114 (side view) and I-GN 17766 ( 3/4 view) showing B end.  The same photos and paint information provided by Ed Hawkins appeared in the December 1996 issue of Railmodel Jounal.  The paint information provided for sides, ends and roof to match prototype  paint is a 50/50 mix of Floquil Box Car Red and Southern Freight Car Brown (Floquil paints are out of production).  And, black for underframe, trucks, and placards (tackboards).

Ed Hawkins Collection
(click on this or any image to enlarge)

Ed Hawkins Collection

The build of Missouri Pacific Box Car 34222 began by removing the molded on brake component mounting brackets.  After the mounting bracket removal the underframe was installed.  Coupler pocket holes and kingpins were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.

Underframe installed.

Next the molded on sill tabs were removed and the resin long straight solid sill from the  SMMK was installed.  When I build another car, I will use Evergreen strip styrene to create the long straight solid sill rather than the resin one as the styrene sill part when glued with liquid styrene cement would provide a cleaner looking seam between the two.

Long straight solid sill installed.

Next I needed to remove the lettering from the car body since I had decided I wanted to retain the manufacture applied paint.   To remove the lettering I used a method Jim Betz has shared on RealSTMFC.groups.iso that he uses to remove lettering.   I made a change to Jim’s method using Walthers Solvaset rather than isopropyl alcohol.  So to remove the lettering, the Solvaset was applied with a brush and a large wooden toothpick was used to go over the lettering until removed.  The method is slow, time consuming and tedious; however, it does the job well without removing the paint.  Previous to using a toothpick I would use a nylon scratch brush which removed the lettering much faster, however, much easier to remove paint as well as the lettering.

Tools used for lettering removal.

Majority of lettering removed.

On most builds I do, I like to paint added upgrade or detail parts after being added.   Therefore, I hand painted the side sill with Polly Scale Oxide Red.  Now I went back to do some basic work on the underbody.   I installed Kadee #262 coupler pockets, with Kadee #148 couplers installed, with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws.  I added the underframe sections between the bolsters and the coupler pockets using Evergreen I-beam styrene.   Now the underbody was airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air Nato Black 71.251.  I installed the kit trucks with InterMountain 33” metal wheel sets installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws. 

Underbody before airbrushed black.

Underbody after airbrushed black.

I finished removing the remaining lettering on the sides and ends and added stick on tire weights to weight the car to 3.8 ounces.

All lettering from carbody removed.

Car weighted with tire weights.

The car body was ready for the install of ends and roof; however, I decided not to use the Sunshine Model Mini Kit (SMMK) parts.   Why?  When I reviewed the photos of cars other than the Missouri Pacific in the Railmodel  Journal mentioned above I realized I could use these parts to build other freight cars of the 1942 design.  Therefore, I used the SMMK ends and a Red Caboose panel roof as masters to make rubber molds to produce resin parts used to build MP 34222.   After fitting the resin cast roof and ends to the InterMountain car body I assembled them with cyanoacrylate (CA).   Maybe one day some manufacture will produce a one piece mini kit assembly to make an easy install.  

Assembled roof and ends ready to install on carbody.

When CA was set, the assembled car ends and roof were installed on the InterMountain car body.  CA was used to bond the assembly to the car body.  After the resin assembled car ends and roof were installed I installed sill steps.  The plastic sill steps provided in the kit were installed for a sill filler (increase width) were cut off and A-Line #29001, style B, sill steps were mounted in holes drilled with a #76 drill in the widen sill mounting area.

Assembled roof and ends installed on carbody.

B end view of assembled roof and ends
 installed on carbody.

With a car body ready for adding the detail parts, I installed the plastic kit eight rung ladders.   After glue set, kit ladders stiles had the plastic rungs removed with a sprue nipper and replaced with wire rungs bent using No Name  .010” brass wire ( No Name wire was given to me by a friend who did not know manufacturer).  If I had not used the No Name .010” diameter brass wire, Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1100, .010” phosphor bronze wire (PBW) would have been used.

Ladder with wire rungs installed.

On the roof, Kadee Apex running boards #2001, were installed rather than suggested metal one.  Formula 560 canopy glue was applied with a toothpick to the roof saddles to install the running boards. 

Kadee Apex running boards installed.

Now the B end work was done.   The following B end detail parts were installed 

• Plano Apex metal brake step, #11322 set 
• Brake step brackets, kit
• Brake housing with chain, kit
• Brake shaft clevis to attach brake shaft to bell crank, kit
• Brake shaft, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW 
• Retainer valve, kit
• Retainer line and brackets, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW
• Uncoupling levers, bent using Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
• Uncoupling lever mounting brackets, Yarmouth Model Works #507
• Brake wheel, Kadee Ajax, #2020

The brake gear had the brake shaft removed with a sprue nipper between brake housing chain and clevis to mount each separately allowing a replacement wire brake shaft to be installed between them once mounted on the car end.  If you use the Yarmouth Model Works #507 uncoupling lever mounting brackets, I suggest you use a #79 drill to enlarge the hole prior to bending and mounting.  I had to enlarge the hole after mounting to allow my uncoupling lever to pass through the bracket hole.  I had to bend cardboard to create a wedge for backing to allow drilling the hole.  Without backing to hold the bracket in place it would bend or it will break off.   I broke one resulting in frustration and “verbal blue smoke”.  Lesson learned.

B end details installed.

With B end work done, work needed on the sides was done.  Kadee bracket grab irons, Kadee #2250, were installed in the manufacture drilled holes.   Doors and door stops from the SMMK were installed with CA.  On the doors the cast on door handles were carved off and replaced with wire door handles bent using Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.

Side grab irons, doors and wire handles and
door stops installed.

The underbody work which had been done before the B end work included the install of the following parts:

        -       Brake cylinder, kit, resin mounting bracket, Sunshine Models

- AB (Control) valve, kit, resin mounting bracket, Sunshine Models

- Air reservoir, kit, mounting brackets - plastic grab irons

- Above brake components were predrilled for piping

- Slack adjuster, Yarmouth Model Works pin plate #508

- Brake cylinder lever, cut from Evergreen #8108, 1” x 8” strip styrene

- Brake floating lever, cut from Evergreen #8106, 1” x 6” strip styrene

- Brake levers hangers, plastic grab irons

- Brake piping from air reservoir to control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” dia. Brass wire

- Brake pipe from brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” dia. PBW

- Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW

- Brake rod clevises, Tichy turnbuckles #8021

-  Chain, Precision Scale # 48553,  34 links per inch

- Train line, kit

- Dirt collector, resin cast in M&N Shops

Underbody details parts installed.

Missouri Pacific 34222 was now moved to the paint shop.  After previous review of the numbers in the kit provided decal set,  I chose number 34222 for the car number.

 Since the  underbody had already been airbrushed Vallejo Model Air Nato Black #71.251 only the added detail parts were hand painted with again Vallejo Model Air Nato Black #71.25.  Trucks were also hand painted the same color.

Underbody added detail parts painted black.

Next the car body was sprayed with a mix of Vallejo/MicroMark Model Air, Boxcar Red  # X29015X2, 50% and my mix of Southern Freight Car Brown 70.990, 50%.  I mixed the Southern Freight Car Brown using a mix of Vallejo Model Color Black Red 70.859, 2/3 (2 parts) and Vallejo Model Color Flat Yellow 70.953, 1/3 (1 part).

Car body airbrushed.

Car body airbrushed.

Once dry, car body was sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 for decal base.  After drying overnight, decals were applied.  Decals provided in the kit were used.  Due to the age of the decals, the decals were coated with Microscale Liquid Decal Film to prevent them breaking up.  I used photos of MP box car 34114  and  B end of box car I-GN 17768 (above) as a guide to apply decals.

Decals were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush.   After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied.  Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel.  Again when dry, car body sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to better hide edges of decals and protect decals during handling. 

Decals applied.

Again when dry, the car body was sprayed with Model Master Acryl, #4636, flat to protect decals and provide a flat finish for weathering when applied.

MP 34222 ready for weathering
before placard boards.

MP 34222 ready for weathering
after placard boards.

One more step before putting MP 34222 in service was to weather the car with Artmatic eye shadow and Pan Pastels.  An Artmatic eye shadow color like a RR light earth brown color were applied over rivet seams and sill areas.  Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1  was used on the roof and lightly over safety appliances on car body.

Car body weathered.

Car body weathered.

Missouri Pacific  boxcar 34222 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made for MP 34222, the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

Car spotted for unloading at Bass Lake Jct. Team Track.

Car spotted for unloading at Bass Lake Jct. Team Track.

Car spotted for unloading at Bass Lake Jct. Team Track.

Car spotted for unloading at Bass Lake Jct. Team Track.

I want to say, “Thank You” to Ed Hawkins for permission to use his photos of MP cars in in the Sunshine Models Modeling Notes for Missouri Pacific 1942 American Car & Foundry (ACF) Boxcars (Sunshine Models 2005) and the December 1996 issue of Railmodel Jounal.  And, a “Thank You” to George Toman for notifying me of the 2005 Sunshine Models Mini Kit for a Missouri Pacific Box Car, purchasing and shipping it for me.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

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Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491

All of us have freight cars that we wish a manufacturer would produce either in resin, plastic or brass to enable us to add them to our freight car fleet.  At times a modification of an existing kit or kitbash can provide us that freight car; however, there are some cars that the only way to add them to our fleet is to scratchbuild the car.  Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491, an open side pickle tank, was one such freight car I wanted  in service on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.

To build Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 the research including photo and O Scale plan was already done by David Leider and published in his article in the February 2002 issue of Railmodel Journal.   David also is the author of the book Pickle and Vinegar Makers of the Midwest (David J. Leider, 2015) that contains photos and plans of Soo Line pickle tank cars used to serve M.A. Gedney Company.

Prototype Soo Line Pickle Tank car 4491, class TW, is shown on the roster in   the 1953 Official Railway Equipment Register (ORER) on the Soo Line roster as a vinegar tank car.  All Soo Line pickle tank or vinegar tank cars are shown as vinegar cars on the Soo Line roster.  Other than David's plan and the data shown in the 1953 ORER and photo of 4491, I have no specific data on this car.  In addition to dimensional date and that pickle tank car 4491 was a 40 ton car, the 1953 ORER does tell us the car held 6,094 gallons.  I do not know when pickle tank 4491 was removed from the roster; however, Soo Line pickle tank car 4799 shown on the Soo Line roster in 1953 ORER was off the roster by 1960.

Soo Line 4491
Soo Line Historical and Technical Society
Courtesy of Ken Soroos 
(click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)

Plan for Soo Line Pickle Tank 4491 from
David Leider's article in Railmodel Jounal.

As the prototype, the build of Soo Line pickle tank 4491 begins with a flat car to which tanks, roof support structure and roof are added.   Like David I chose to use the Tichy Train Group (Tichy) 40 Foot flat car kit, #4021, almost an exact copy of the Soo Line flat car as a starting point; however, styrene rather than wood was used to fabricate tanks and other parts of the pickle tank car.

Tichy Train Group (Tichy) kit #4021

I had previously built the Tichy 40 foot flat cars  I had in my freight car inventory so I ordered two flat cars direct from Tichy, one for this build and a second for maybe another Soo Line tank car.   While I was waiting for the flat cars to arrive, I made the braces (supports) supporting the roof.   The six braces, two end, two middle and two center require 10 x 10s, 6 x 12s and 10 x 12s specified in the plan.   I laminated five pieces of Evergreen #8210, 2 x 10 to make the 10 x 10s, three pieces of Evergreen #8212, to make the 6 x 12s and six pieces of Evergreen #8212, 2 x 12 strip styrene  to make 10 x 12s,  to make the brace parts needed in the plan.  I used a Northwest Short Line chopper to cut the parts to length and a tweezer to hold them together while bonded with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK).   The braces were assembled as showed in the plan.

Tweezers holding styrene strips to be laminated. 

Laminated braces called for in plan.

Once the braces were made, I made the four required tanks.   The four prototype wood tanks are 8.5 feet wide and 5 feet tall with tank bands.  After looking at various tank materials with no success to get the proper tank width,  I was applying decals to another freight car project when the Microscale Sol bottle caught my attention.  The bottle looked like it might be the right size for the inner pickle tank.  I pulled a couple of empty Microscale Sol empty bottles out of a scrap collection box I had thrown them in.  I was amazed to find the Microscale Sol bottle when wrapped with Evergreen #269-2050 V-Groove siding, .020” with .050” spacing provided the 8.5” scale tank diameter needed.

I used the two Microscale Sol bottles to cut four tanks 5 scale feet in height on my M&N Shop band saw.   Back at the work desk, the tanks after some deburring of the edges (not perfect) had Testors Tube Cement (not a cement at all, but a solvent in viscous form) applied to them and a wrapper cut to size from the V-Groove siding applied.   Clamps were used to hold the tank wrapper in place where it came together on the Microscale bottle until dry.  When the glue on the tanks was set, the tanks and roof braces were test fit on the basic assembled Tichy flat car.   I liked the fit.  Liking the fit, MEK was used to fasten the braces to the Tichy flat car.  The tanks are not glued to the flat car deck at this time as tank bands are still to be added .  And, the Tichy flat car had arrived and had basic assembly completed during the search for inner tanks.

Braces only have been glued to the flat car deck.

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Microscale Sol bottle interior of tank visible.

With braces glued on the flat car deck the roof was built to be removed for now.   A frame to which the roof is attached was built from Evergreen #8208,  2” x 8” strip styrene.   The attached roof was cut from Evergreen .020” sheet styrene, scribed to have 8” wide boards, and glued to the frame with MEK.   Running board roof saddles and running board were made with Midwest Products Scale Lumber #8003, 2” x 6” boards.   The running board center roof saddle was installed first and two roof saddles were added using a 4 feet 9 inches spacing to each side.  The end roof saddles were added and four additional saddles, two from each end, again with the 4 feet 9 inch spacing from the end saddle were installed.

Running board saddles and running board installed.

The roof assembly was set aside to thoroughly dry and tanks were removed from the flat car deck to have tank bands installed.  The tank bands, .007” diameter soft radio coil wire, were installed on the tanks.   The soft fine wire was used for two reasons: looks and to allow wire to easily bend to form a “U” bend on each end of the wire where the ends came together to  simulate the look of a turnbuckle.  I spent a lot of time on the spacing and adjusting the bands.  If I build that second Soo Line pickle tank car , I will scribe tank band lines on the tank wrappers prior to install for the wire tank bands to sit in and be in a straight line.   A method George Toman told me he used when he installed tank bands on a water tank he built.  Once I was happy with the tank bands look the tanks were glued to the flat deck with cyanoacrylate (CA).

Tank bands installed.

After tanks were glued on the flat car deck, I used electrical box punchouts ( washers, bolts or choice would work) with Permatex Clear Adhesive Silicone RTV Sealant to weight the car to 3.8 ounces which increased to 4 ounces (above NMRA recommended weight) after all parts to complete build of the pickle tank car were installed.

Weight, electrical outlet box punchouts installed.

Once the Permatex weight adhesive was setup the roof was glued to the roof braces with MEK.

Roof glued to roof braces.

Next the guy wire brackets for the sides were made from .006” brass.  I used the measurements in the plans to draw the brackets on the brass before cutting out them out with a Xuron cutter for photo etched parts, #9180.  A touch up of each cut out part was done with a file before install with CA.  After install, the holes in the brackets were marked with a tiny finishing nail and a #78 drill was used to drill the holes to insert guy wires.  In addition to the guy wire brackets, the side stake pockets provided in the kit were installed with MEK.

Plan showing guy wire brace and center brace
from David Leider's article.

Guy wire brackets and stake pockets installed.

Now the tank saddles were made and installed.  As the roof braces, the tank saddles were cut from a laminated 10 x 10 as specified in the plan.  I drew a diagram of a tank and saddles for the cutting and shaping the curved part via sanding.  The saddles were cut to length using the UMM-Saw (JLC) with razor blade looking saw blade with extremely fine teeth.  The mini miter box made for this saw was used for holding the 10 x 10  when cutting the tank saddles.

Diagram I made for cutting tank saddles and
several of the tank saddles cut.

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UMM-Saw and mini miter box used to 
cut tank saddles.

Better view of UMM-Saw in mini miter box.

Tank saddles installed.

I like to have side and end ladders in place to use as a guide to place B end details.  Therefore, I installed Tichy ladders, #3065 Reefer ladders with 14” rung spacing, cut to resemble the prototype on the B end side corner.   I also installed the plastic kit provided sill steps.

Ladders installed on side.

I moved to the “B” end where I installed the B end ladders with ladder rungs on ends lining up with those on side.  I continued to install needed details on the B end.  Yarmouth Model Works (YMW) running board brackets, YMW #260, were installed.   A Tichy retainer valve, AB set #3013, and retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW), were installed.  A brake shaft, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW,  and bracket were installed.  The brake shaft bracket was cut from .005” brass.  Tichy brake wheel, AB set #3013, and fastener made with MEK Goop were installed.

Ladder installed on B end with rungs matching side.

In addition to ladder, other B end details installed.

I left the B end to go to the roof to install the hatches and grab irons.  The prototype hatches were 32” x 32”.   I cast the needed hatches from resin in the M&N Shops after using Grandt Line Reefer hatches, #5106 Reefer Hardware, to make masters.  To make the masters a styrene board , Evergreen #8102 1” x 2”, was added to the back of the Grand Line hatch and the hinges shortened.  And, a mold was made using the reworked Grandt Line Hatches.   Cast hatches were installed followed by the roof grab irons bent from Tichy #1100, .010” diameter PBW with YMW photo etched eye bolts without shoulder for corner legs.

Grandt Line hatch modified to get square hatch
for master to make mold.

Roof hatches cast in M&N Shops installed.

Back to the B end to install sill grab irons bent using Tichy #1100, .010” diameter PBW.

Sill grab irons installed.

 After grab irons were installed on the B end, I continued to install the side grab irons on the A end side.  A post for the grab irons, Evergreen #8202, 2” x 2” strip styrene, was installed.   The plastic grab irons, Tichy #3062 18” ladder rungs, were installed.  Work on the sides continued.  The plastic kit sill steps originally installed to get a wider sill for wire sill steps were now cut off.  Sill steps, A-Line #29000, style A, were installed in #76 drilled holes.  And, guy wires and brackets on center braces , Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW, were installed and glued with CA.  ERROR!  In a hurry to see the guy wires installed I forgot to add the turnbuckles on the guy wires before install.  Therefore, I cut the Tichy #8021 turnbuckles in half and installed them on the already installed guy wires.  Of course, not a recommended method to install.  And, I installed the drop grab iron, Tichy #3015, 18” drop type, that the prototype had under the ladders.

Sill steps and guy wires installed; however,
 no turnbuckles.

Sill steps and guy wires installed; however,
 now turnbuckles added.

Normally my final step in freight car builds, the install of uncoupling levers.   On this pickle tank car the top uncoupling levers and eye bolt brackets were bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter wire and installed.

Uncoupling levers, top type, installed.

With the car body detail install work done, the underbody work was completed as follows:

- Brake cylinder and piston , unknown from parts box on Tichy bracket

- AB (Control) valve, Sunshine Models resin

- Air reservoir, Tichy AB set #3013 on cut off sill step brackets

- Above brake components were predrilled for piping

- Brake cylinder lever,Tichy in kit

- Brake floating lever, Tichy in kit

- Brake piping from air reservoir to control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” dia. Brass wire

- Brake pipe from brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” dia. PBW

- Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW

-  Chain, Precision Scale # 48553,  34 links per inch

- Train line, .018’ diameter flora wire

- Dirt collector, InterMountain reworked

Underbody details installed.

Soo Line Pickle car 4491 was ready for the paint shop.  During the build I had already hand painted the running board with Vallejo/MicroMark Undercoat Light Grey X29013X2 to seal the wood.  In the paint shop, the car body and underbody were airbrushed Vallejo/MicroMark Undercoat Light Grey X29013X2.  The Undercoat Light Grey serves as primer to have any pastel color, here the yellow color, to get color saturation. 

Right side in Undecoat Light Grey.

Left side in Undecoat Light Grey

Once dry, the flat car sides and ends were taped off allowing the tanks, braces and roof to be airbrushed Vallejo/MicroMark Reefer Yellow #29028X2.   When dry,  the flat car, flat car deck, underbody and trucks were hand painted Model Master Oxide Red Flat #4882.

Car painted.

Car painted.

Underbody and trucks painted.

Again when dry, car body was airbrushed with Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 for decal base.  After drying overnight, decals were applied.  Decals for the name, number and reweigh date WS-12-47 (Soo Line Shoreham Shops) were provided by Ken Soroos from  use sets he had.   The capacity and weights data is from a used MILW set.  I used photos of Soo Line pickle car 4491 (above) as a guide to apply decals.

Decals applied.

Decals were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush.   After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied.  Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel.  Again when dry, car body sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Varnish #70.510  to better hide edges of decals and protect decals during handling.  Again when dry, the car body was sprayed with Model Master Flat Clear Acryl, #4636, to protect decals and provide a flat finish for weathering when applied.

One more task needed to be completed before weathering Soo Line pickle tank car 4491.  The missing tank saddle on the left side on the second tank from the B end was cut, primed, painted and installed.  Now the Soo Line pickle tank car 4491 was ready for weathering.

Missing tank saddle installed.

Therefore, before putting Soo Line Pickle Tank 4491 in service , the car was weathered with Artmatic eye shadow and Pan Pastels.  An Artmatic eye shadow color, a light brown, was applied with a small brush over entire car body.  A Loreal eye shadow yellow color was applied with sponge tipped applicator to the yellow painted part of the car.  Pan Pastels Neutral Grey Extra Dark 820.2 was applied to the entire car with brush and micro applicator.  Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 was applied to the running board with a micro applicator.

Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 weathered.

Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 weathered.

Soo Line Pickle Tank 4491 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made for Soo Line Pickle Tank 4491 , the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 in service with
Heinz car at Brineinger Pickle salting station 
in Sussx, Minnesota.

Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 in service with
Heinz car at Brineinger Pickle salting station 
in Sussx, Minnesota.

Soo Line Pickle Tank Car 4491 moved from 
Brineinger Pickle salting station to the CNW 
Interchange in Little Chiago, Minnesota
for delivery to Gedney Pickle Company.

I want to say, “Thank You” to David Leider for his research, photos and article on Soo Line 4491  and Soo Line Pickle Cars in his book.   A, “Thank You” to Ken Soroos for providing information, decal  and photo help with this build and upgrade.   Definitely appreciated as without their help this build would have been much more difficult.  One last "Thank You" to George Toman for sharing his tip to easily get straight line tank bands.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

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