Monday, March 1, 2021

Northern Pacific Box Car 12833

 My latest build is a Sunshine Models, kit 52.3, Northern Pacific double-sheathed boxcar 12833.  I had this flat kit in the to build cabinet for some time before Rapido Trains, Inc. produced a very accurate Ready-To-Run (RTR) version of this box car in several paint schemes.  Since I purchased several of the RTR cars this kit was not high on the build list; however, I felt it was time to build it to join the NP Rapido cars on the roster.

The prototype cars were Northern Pacific (NP) 10000 series double-sheathed boxcars built by various builders between 1923 and 1932.  NP assigned the cars into several series starting at 10000 and ending at 14499.  The double-sheathed box features included radial roof, Murphy 7/8 corrugated ends on the first 4000 cars,  Miner Ideal lever style brake, massive fish belly center sill underframe and a three brake lever arrangement on the underbody per NP series 10000 underframe diagram.  The cars rode on 40 Ton trucks.  Photo sources and additional information on the cars can be found in:  Sunshine Models Prototype Data Sheet # 52A provided in the kit, Railroad Model Craftsman, July 2003, Ted Culotta’s article, Essential Freight Cars: 4, NP’s 10000-series double-sheathed boxcars, NP Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment (Morning Sun Books, 1995) and Railroad Picture Archives.



Railroad Picture Archives
Paint scheme prior to the one in photo below.
(click or tap on image to enlarge)


After reviewing photos I had available, the kit contents and decals provided, I decided to number  my car 12833.  The prototype was built by General American Car Company in 1923 that Northern Pacific (NP) assigned to series 12000-12999.  Over the years these cars had different lettering schemes.  Since my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company railroad is set in the spring of 1955 I would use the scheme adopted in the early 1950’s that featured the arched Northern Pacific, the 48” monad herald and the slogan “Main Street of the Northwest.”



Sunshine Models Prototype Data Sheet N. 52A
A car with paint scheme in the series I was building.



As with every flat kit I began the resin car body assembly consisting of sides and ends.  An underbody support, the length of the car, cut from scrap resin was installed on each side.  Baffles cut from Evergreen .060” sheet styrene were added inside car body to prevent inward bowing of car sides in the future and to help support the underbody upon install.  The radial roof was installed to complete the car body.



Car body assembled with underbody supports
and baffles.



Radial roof installed.



With the car body assembled I continued with the underbody.  Coupler pads and bolster center plates were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  Kadee #262 narrow draft gearboxes with Kadee #148 whisker couplers installed were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 3/16” screws.   Tahoe Model Works 40 Ton ARA trucks, TMW-115, were temporarily installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws. Weight was added to the inside portion of the underbody to bring the car weight 3.8 ounces and the underbody was installed.



Under body installed.



I removed the trucks to continue the underbody work.  I installed the bolsters, bolster rivet plates,  cross bearers and cross ties.  



Bolsters, cross bearers and cross ties installed.


Next I installed the brake mounting brackets and Bowser brake components provided in the kit.  The mounting brackets for the air reservoir are plastic sill steps cut from a plastic car, slack adjuster for floating brake lever is from parts box, and third lever mounted in front of the brake cylinder lever is one from a Tichy Train Group (Tichy) set #3013 with a bracket made from scrap resin flash.



Brake components installed.
Note: third lever in front of brake cylinder.


The car body was ready for detailing.



"A" end with lumber door.


I started car body detailing with the roof.  The wood longitudinal running board (kit) was installed with Formula 560 Canopy glue.  For end brackets Yarmouth Model Works photo etched end brackets were installed.  Roof lateral running boards (kit) were installed with brackets I made from photo etched brass.  I used a scrap “L” shaped photo etched brass piece so I only had to bend the ends downward to mount on the sides and ends.  Bracket fasteners were made with MEK Goop.   Roof corner grab irons (kit) were installed with Yarmouth Model Works eye bolts without shoulder for corner leg.



Roof details installed.



Note lateral running board bracket.



With roof detailing finished, I moved to detailing the sides.  Straight grab irons (kit) were installed for side ladder rungs in holes drilled with No. 79 drill.  One unique NP feature on the side ladders was the last rung has a drop shape (step) on the right side. The other grab irons I bent from Tichy #1101, .010” phosphor bronze wire (PBW). 



Grab irons for ladders and other installed.



Now I began the most difficult part of the build; the end ladders which per NP 10000 diagrams were 15” wide ladders.  Frank Hodina, who created the masters, created the 2” x 2” stile near the corner with the ladder mounting brackets that look very good.  Therefore, I kept the molded on end stiles.  The most difficult task was cutting the inner resin ladder stile from the molded parts sheet and sanding it and thinning it with a single-edged razor blade to proper width.  In addition, the drilling of the resin stiles with a No. 79 drill is not easy and has to be done with great care.  Once done and installed as on the sides the straight grab irons except the last rung which as on the sides has the drop shape (step) on the right were installed.



End ladders installed.  Note last rung with
drop shape step) on the right side.



With the ladders complete, the “B” end detail work was next.  The brake step (platform) with rounded corners (kit) and brackets cut from Evergreen #8102, 1” x 2” strip styrene with MEK fasteners was installed.  The brake rod sill step, a A-Line #29000 sill step, was bent to shape per prototype photos and installed.  Now I added the, Minor Ideal lever-style hand brake.  I used the body (kit) after some shaping and adding the portion ( black portion) I could see in photos on the left side.  Before adding the Tichy, set #3013, plastic lever (in my opinion the resin lever too fragile), I installed the retainer valve (kit).  After adding the handle, the brake rod, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW and retainer line Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW were installed.  Placard board (kit) with MEK made mounting straps was installed here and on A end.  Next, grab irons I bent using Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW were installed.




"B" end all details installed.


Back to the underbody to add the piping, brake rods and other details as follows:


  • Train line, .019” flora wire with green color
  • Chain from brake cylinder lever to third lever, A-Line #29219, black 40 links per inch
  • Bracket for third lever I attached to cross bear flange, resin flash
  • All fasteners MEK Goop ( plastic melted in MEK)
  • Piping from air reservoir to brake cylinder, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW
  • Pipe from back of brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1106. .0125” dia. PBW
  • Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
  • Brake rod clevises formed with MEK Goop
  • Slack adjuster on floating lever from parts box
  • Dirt collector, flora wire pipe with scrap plastic pieces and MEK Goop
  • Dirt collector pipe to train line tee, MEK Goop
  • All fasteners MEK Goop



Underbody from third lever side.



Underbody from slack adjuster side.



With underbody work complete I went back to the sides and installed the kit doors.  I like to install them as near the end of the build as possible to have an area to hold car during build that will not be visible on the finished car.  I did remove the molded on handle and replace it with one bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW ( can be only seen in car painted photos).  I added the sill steps, A-Line #29000 bent to shape using NP photos, in No. 76 hole drilled in side sill. 



Doors and sill steps installed.



Back to the B end to add the uncoupling levers.  I bent the uncoupling levers from Tichy#1106, .0125” diameter PBW and installed them with the Detail Associates eye bolts, #2206, provided in the kit.




Uncoupling levers installed.
Note the sill steps to match NP prototype.



NP double-sheathed boxcar 12833 was ready for paint.  The trucks and wheels were hand painted with Vallejo Model Color Black Grey, #70.862. The car underbody was sprayed Model Air Vallejo Dark Grey Blue, 71.054.




Underbody painted.


 The car body was sprayed with a Vallejo Model Color mix:  Black Red #70.859 70 percent and Flat Yellow #70.953, 30%.  Once the paint was dry, the car body was sprayed Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to have a Gloss base for decal application.  After drying overnight, decals provided in the kit were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush.   After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied.  Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel.  When dry, car body sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510 to better hide decals edges.  Finally, the car body was sprayed Model Master Acryl 46636/Flat Clear Acryl to protect the car during handling.




NP 12833 side view painted.



NP 12833 3/4 view painted.



NP 1283 "B" end painted.



And, after clear flat coat was dry, I weathered the car body with Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 applied with a makeup brush.  A damp Q tip was then used to wipe away some of the applied Paynes Grey Extra Dark in various areas.  A Prismacolor pencil, warm grey PC 1054, was used to streak a few boards here and there.  Artmatic brown eye shadow makeup was to add rust to trucks. 



NP 12833 has been weathered.



NP 12833 has been weathered.


NP double-sheathed box car 12833 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, "Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made,  the final step to put a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.


NP box car 12833 spotted at Wooden Container
Company.



NP 12833 spotted at Wooden Container Company.



Some Little Chicago industries and CNW Interchange
being pulled allowing NP 12833 to be seen.




Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer











Saturday, February 13, 2021

Northern Pacific Refrigerator 91253

 My new build is a Northern Pacific (NP) Refrigerator 91253, an InterMountain PFE R-40-25 kit painted for the NP.  After a little research I found the kit to be an accurate model including paint scheme of the prototype.  Well there were a few minor exceptions including running boards, brake step and trucks.  A special instruction sheet in the kit stated a new end without poling pockets and with the extra top rib was specially tooled for this car.  The kit box label stated the kit was exclusively produced for the Armarillo Railroad Museum (ARM).  I had not purchased the kit from ARM, rather the kit was obtained from Bill Pardie when he was reducing his to build kits.  Therefore, I decided to see if I could find the year this kit was produced and sold.

On the Armarillo Railroad Museum website I found contact information for Jerry Michaels.  I contacted Jerry and placed a post on Real STMFC to find out when the car had been produced and sold by ARM.  Jerry Michaels provided 1998 as the year the kit, one of four numbers, was produced and sold.  A second run was done in 1999, again four numbers, were produced and sold.  Other replies from RealSTMFC individuals showed purchases of the kit in year 2000 when ARM was selling custom cars on their website.


The prototype was built by Pacific Car & Foundry in 1949 for the Northern Pacific (NP) who assigned the cars to series 91250 - 91499.  The steel car features included: R+3/3 improved dreadnaught ends with poling pockets, Murphy diagonal panel roof, Apex running board and brake step, Preco fans, ice capacity of 10,000 lbs., and equipped with half-stage icing grates.  The ice capacity when grates in position was 6,500 lbs. and with crushed ice 6,200 lbs.  The cars rode on ASF A-3 ride control trucks.  Some of these details on this car series were found on the Northern Pacific Historical Society website under the Freight Equipment Freight Car Roster.


The original paint scheme was yellow sides with black hardware, red (a boxcar red shade) ends and silver roof.  Lettering had a 36 inch herald, and the Main Street of the Northwest slogan in black script under it.  A photo of NP 91326 appears in Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual Volume Three Refrigerator Cars (Speedwitch Media, 2017).   


The cars were repainted in the early 1960's with the 60” herald, a new slogan and with hardware the same color as the sides.  A photo of repainted car 91417 appears in NP Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment (Morning Sun Books, 1995).


Upon contacting Jim Dick regarding the NP refrigerator car I was building he provided me photos of car 91458 and 91497 in the as built paint scheme to assist in my build of NP refrigerator 91253.




Jim Dick Collection
(Click or tap on this or any photo to enlarge.)


Left side.              Jim Dick Collection



Right side.          Jim Dick Collection



I began the build by installing the ends onto the car body.  Next, I  got the underbody ready for install.  I installed the kit train line.  Coupler pads and bolster center plates were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  Kadee #262 narrow draft gear boxes with Kadee #148 whisker couplers were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 3/16” screws.  Accurail trucks with InterMountain 33” metal wheels were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws.  Later the Accurail trucks were removed and replaced with correct ASF A-3 Kato trucks #31-601.  Car was weighted to 3.8 ounces with electrical metal box punch outs attached with Permatex clear silicone adhesive sealant.  After silicone was set the floor was installed and glued into car body.  Tichy Train Group (Tichy) brake components, drilled for piping, were installed on modified brackets. The molded bracket for the control valve was shortened and an angle was cut on the brake cylinder mount (from top of side toward side sill to bottom near center sill) to make the bracket look prototypical.



Basic underbody work done.


The kit ladders on the sides and ends were installed next followed by kit ice hatches.



Kit ladders that matched prototype well installed.



Kit ice hatches installed.


The roof work was next.  The kit Morton running board is not correct for this car.  Therefore, a Kadee #2001 Apex running board with corner walks and end mounting bracket pins removed was installed with Formula 560 Canopy glue on the roof.  Prior to the install I hand painted the running board Vallejo/Micro-Mark Model Air Flat Aluminum #29025.  Grab irons bent from Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1101, .010” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW) were installed with Yarmouth Model Works photo etched eye bolts without shoulder for a corner leg.






With the roof details added , I moved to the side details.  On the sides wire grab irons I bent, Tichy # 1101, .010” diameter PBW were installed.  A-Line #29000, sill steps replaced the plastic kit corner sill steps. The kit provided center sill steps under the doors were used.  Fan control boxes provided in the kit were installed.  Placard boards from a McKean Models kit, a better match to the prototype than the kit ones, and brass trust plates from Yarmouth Models were installed in the upper right corner.  All detail parts added were hand painted Vallejo Model Color #70.859, Black except for trust plates painted Vallejo Model Air #71.078, Gold Yellow.  The molded on Preco fans were painted Vallejo Black and a dot of yellow put in middle like prototype photo.



Grab irons and sill steps installed.
 Note Preco fans not yet painted to match prototype.



Placard boards and trust plate installed.
Note Preco fans repainted to match prototype.



I moved to the “B” end to complete work needed there.  The ends were molded without the poling pockets so I installed the poling pockets provided in the kit using the special instructions sheet in the kit to do so.   I installed the kit brake step brackets and a Plano Model Products Apex brake step, set #11322, to replace the incorrect Morton one provided correct for a PFE reefer.  Kit brake housing and chain were mounted next.



Brake step and brake housing installed.
Note: No poling pockets.



Now the bell crank, in kit, was installed on the sill making sure it lined up with the chain from the brake gear housing followed by the brake rod cut from Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1102 .015” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW).  A resin retainer valve from parts box followed by a retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW, and brackets were installed.  Brake housing received a Kadee Equipco #2041 brake wheel (not in kit).  Placard board and grab irons bent from Tichy #1101 .010” diameter PBW were installed  here and on the “A” end.  All fasteners were made with MEK Goop.  




"B" end details installed.
Note: poling pockets installed.


After adding these details I hand painted added details Vallejo Model Color Black Red #70.859.  Since I already hand painted the running board because it needed to be painted prior to install and side details during this build of NP reefer 91253, I decided would continue to paint other added details as I went along.  



"B" details hand painted.


When the paint was dry, uncoupling levers, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW and eye bolt brackets I bent were installed.




Uncoupling lever installed.


Back to the underbody to complete the details needed there.  Underbody details installed that were not in the kit unless otherwise noted are as follows:


  • Brake Levers, Evergreen #8108, 1” x 8” and #8106, 1” x 6” strip styrene
  • Brake lever hangers Tichy #3021, 18” wire straight grab irons
  • Pipping from air reservoir to control valve, Tichy #1101 .010” PBW
  • Piping from brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
  • Brake rods, Tichy #1106 .0125” PBW
  • Brake rod clevises, Tichy turnbuckles #8021
  • Chain, A-Line #29219, 40 links per inch
  • Dirt collector, (scratch built) floral wire with scrap plastic parts added
  • Ice bunker water drains are provided in the kit



Under body details installed.



NP refrigerator 91253 underbody was ready for paint.  The trucks and wheels were hand painted with Vallejo Model Color Black Grey, #70.862. The car underbody was hand painted Model Air Vallejo Dark Grey Blue #71.054.  



Underbody painted.


Once the paint was dry, the sill on the car body was hand brushed Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to have a Gloss base for decal application.  After drying, repack decals from Yarmouth Models Works 1937 AAR box car decal set were applied.  I used side view photo obtained from Jim Dick as a guide to apply decals.  Decals were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush.   After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied.  Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel.  When dry, car body sprayed with Vallejo Matt finish 70.520 to protect the car during handling.




Repack decals applied.



And, after Matt Varnish was dry, a light weathering with Pan Pastels Burnt Sienna Shade #740.3, on sides and ends and Paynes Grey Extra Dark #840.1 on the roof using color photo of NP steel reefer  91471 as a weathering guide.




NP 91253 weathered with Pan Pastels.



NP 91253 weathered with Pan Pastels.


NP refrigerator car 91253 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made for NP refrigerator 91253,  the final step to put car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.




NP  91253 sitting at Food Producers.


NP 91253 sitting at Food Producers.


A  big “Thank You” to Jim Dick for the photo to help with build of this car and for permission to use photos in this blog post.  A “Thank You” to Jerry Michales for his help and information regarding this kit.  And, “Thank You” to Gary Wildung for pointing out to me the  Freight Car Detail Roster information on the Northern Pacific Historical Society website.





Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer






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Friday, February 5, 2021

Tool Improvement - make UMM-USA benders easier to use.

 After my post of “Ladders - photo etched” I learned  that Peter Aue, Germany had offered ladder jigs for assembling photo etched ladders in prior years.  I contacted Peter Aue to see if he still had any in stock that I could purchase.  When I contacted him regarding the photo etched ladder assembly jig I enclosed a link to my blog “Ladders - photo etched" that included the UMM-USA benders I was using to bend stiles for photo etched ladders.


UMM-USA 60 mm bender
(Click or tap on this photo or any photo to enlarge)



UMM-USA benders are available with an attached bending bar in  60 mm or 150 mm lengths.  The UMM-USA bender requires you to insert the ladder stiles into it, tighten the ladder stile in the bender with screws with hexagonal sockets in their head with enclosed Allen wrench (hex key), and the attached bar is moved upward against the style bending it into a right angle.  It works like the “bending brake” in a metal fabrication shop.  It bends the stile correctly each time.




UMM-USA bender with bending bar.
Photo from UMM-USA website.



Peter responded he did not have any ladder assembly jigs to sell.  That was the bad news; however, he also had good news.  He was also using an UMM-USA bender but it was an early model without the spring-loaded jaws of the later benders; however, he had made it easier to use by spring-loading the upper jaw and adding star knobs to replace the screws with hexagonal sockets in their head requiring an Allen wrench to tighten the bender once a ladder stile was inserted for bending.




UMM-USA bender with Peter's improvements.
Peter Aue photo.


I felt Peter had a great tool improvement that I quickly shared with George Toman.   George as I liked the star knob improvement and began the search for star knobs to replace the benders tightening screws with hexagonal sockets in their head needing an Allen wrench.  George found the knobs and notified me he had done so.  And, how many did I want since you have to buy a bag of 20?




George"s UMM-USA benders.
George Toman photo.



After star knobs arrived, I removed the tightening screws with hexagonal sockets in their head needing an Allen wrench that came with the benders I own and replaced them with the star knobs obtained from George.




UMM-USA 60 mm and 150 mm benders I own
with star knobs installed.



After taking the above photo I sent a copy to Peter and George asking their permission to share the UMM-USA bender improvement with the railroad modeling community on my blog.   Both George and Peter agreed it was a good idea to share the tool improvement.   In addition, George contacted UMM-USA to inform and provide photos of the star knobs improvement.


If you own or purchase a UMM-USA bender and want to upgrade your bender with the star knobs.  The star knobs are M6 x 25 x 10 mm. The exact size and length as the original ones.  George’s cost was only $ 5.88 for the bag of 20 on Amazon.  The link is provided below:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X9Q2DGH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



More good news.  Peter had more photo etched ladder assembly jigs made so I was able to purchase two jigs to use to assemble photo etched ladders.



Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.


Lester Breuer






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