Thursday, July 22, 2021

Milwaukee Road SS Box Car 713549

I purchased two Milwaukee Road single-sheathed (SS) wood box car kits produced by Accurail as a limited run for Trainfest 2008, a large train show held in Milwaukee, WI..  I purchased the cars because the cars had the six panel Howe truss sides, Hutchins roof and accurate lettering.  I knew the four post ends as molded were not correct; however, I thought these could be replaced.  I quickly built one kit , car numbered 713406, to get one car running on the railroad while the other, car numbered 713549, stayed in inventory.  Recently while building a Westerfield Models MILW stock car, kit 8202, I realized this car had the correct ends needed for the Accurail cars.  Therefore, I ordered two sets of ends from Westerfield Models.

The prototype cars were built by Pullman Company in 1925 for The Milwaukee Road who assigned the cars to series 713000-713999.  The wood six panel, three on each side of door, Howe truss single-sheathed cars had a 6 foot side door opening, a Camel No. 32 side door and ends of composite design with four structural steel members.  Two of the structural steel members on the ends, one on each side of the coupler box, were vertical and two structural steel members, outside the vertical members, were angled from the end sill to the roof at the car sides.  The ends also had a steel plate insert at the bottom portion to strengthen them.  The cars had an end door on the “A” end only. The cars had a Hutchins Dry Lading roof and rode on Bettendorf trucks.


A photo of car 713054 can be viewed in Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual Volume One: Box & Automobiles (Speedwitch Media 2006,2007).  Photos of cars 713168 and 713451 after 40 years of Interchange service assigned to hide service can be viewed in Milwaukee Road Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment Vol.2 (Morning Sun Books, Inc. 2000).  A photo of a shop diagram can be found in The Milwaukee Road Freight Cars (Normandie House).  The book contains tracings of the Official Employees’ Shop Diagrams of in-service Freight Cars & Cabooses in 1937.  The same diagram can also be found in the recently released book, Milwaukee Road Freight Car Diagrams 10-30-58 book.



Purchased photo in my collection.



While waiting for the Westerfield Models resin cast ends to arrive I carved off molded on grab irons and ladder rungs on sides.  I shortened the ladders to match prototype photos and I cut off the sill steps.  I also cut off the molded on door stop brackets and relocated them to proper location per prototype photos.



Molded on grab irons and ladders rungs carved off.
(Click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)



The door handles were carved off next.  Wire door handles were bent from Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1101, .010” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW) and installed.   Ladder rungs bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW were installed next.  To have the running board brackets wrap around the roof edge I used  MEK Goop to form the wrap around portion.



Door handles and ladder rung installed.



Next I did some work on the underbody.  The molded on brake component brackets were cut off and holes filled in with MEK Goop.  The cars had a straight sill that was easily made with Evergreen  #136, .030” x .125” strip styrene.  The center sill flanges were cut .070” wide out of .005” sheet styrene.  Coupler pockets and truck kingpins were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  The car was weighted to 3.8 ounces with stick on tire weights and the floor was installed in the car. Kadee #148 couplers were installed with Fastenal 3/16” screws  and Accurail trucks with Intermountain 33” metal wheels were installed with Fastenal 1/4” inch screws.



Straight center sill made with styrene installed.



Westerfield Models ends (MILW kit #8202) arrived in the mail so I could now replace the ends.  I used an UMM-USA saw to cut off the incorrect Accurail ends. 



Accurail four post ends cut off.


After a light sanding the Westerfield Models ends were installed with CA.



Westerfield Models "B" end installed.



Westerfield Models "A" end installed.



With the ends installed I could now work on the roof.  The running boards were milled to .025” or 2 1/8” and installed.  End brackets for the longitudinal running board were made with  Evergreen #8102, 1 x 3 strip styrene.



Running boards installed.


Now I went back to make the ladders needed for the ends.  The ladder stiles were cut from Evergreen #8203, 2 x 3 with rungs cut from Plastruct #90850, .010” diameter round styrene rod.  The rounding of the ends of the ladders stiles was done with MEK Goop.  The brake step from Tichy set #3013 was installed and brackets made with Evergreen #8102, 1 x 2 strip styrene followed.  Brackets fasteners were made with MEK Goop.  I followed the brake step install with the brake shaft step install, an A-Line, #29000 sill step bent outward for the brake shaft to rest on when installed.




Ladders, brake step and brake shaft step installed.



I moved back to the roof to finish adding the grab irons that I bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW with Yarmouth Model Works eye bolts without shoulder for corner legs.




Roof grab irons installed.



I continued bending the remaining grab irons from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW and installing them on the ends and sides in holes drilled with a #79 drill.  I wanted the drop grab irons below the ladders to be stronger for operation once in service on the M&N so the drop grab irons were bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW.  I continued the work on the sides installing the A-Line #29000, style A, sill steps in #76 drilled holes.   A door stop, Evergreen #8203, 2 x 3 from styrene bits box, added to the relocated brackets, finished the side work.




Grab irons, sill steps and door stop installed.



Back to the underbody where I installed the Tichy AB brake components, set #3013, with the AB valve not in the usual location.  I located the brake components to match the prototype photo showing air reservoir and AB valve on the same side with the brake cylinder on the other side of the center sill.  Brackets for the components: plastic grab irons cut off cars for wire upgrade, AB valve bracket from Tichy set #3013 and a Sunshine Models resin one for the brake cylinder.




Brake components installed.



Not in the mood to continue with the underbody details, I went back to finish the “B” end.  I installed the retainer line and bracket, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW.  The install of the brake shaft, Tichy #2505, .015” diameter brass wire, with Tichy brake wheel, set #3013, followed.  Before moving on to the underbody work left I took a break from installing detail parts and mixed Vallejo Model Color paint to match the Accurail car body applied color.  I hand brushed the car end edges and some added detail parts as the ladders and grab irons to test the mix.



Retainer line, brake shaft & wheel installed.
Paint test applied to ladder and end edges.



I turned back to finish the underbody adding detail parts as follows:


  • Train line, .018” flora wire that passes through holes drilled with a 4 inch piano wire drill made from .032” diameter piano wire
  • Piping from air reservoir to AB valve, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW
  • Pipe from brake cylinder to AB valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
  • Dirt collector, Tichy set #3013
  • Brake levers, cut form Evergreen strip styrene: brake lever #8108, 1 x 8 and floating lever #8106, 1 x 6
  • Brake lever hangers, brass wire grab irons
  • Slack adjuster, parts box
  • Brake rodding, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
  • Brake rod clevises, Tichy #8021, turnbuckles
  • Chain, #29219, A-Line black 40 links per inch
  • Fasteners, MEK Goop



Underbody details installed.


The Milwaukee Road single-sheathed box car 713549 was ready for paint and decals.  For a color match to the Accurail applied body color I used a Vallejo mix of Model Color Calvary Brown 70.982, 50 drops and Model Color Black 70.950, 1 drop.  Since the Milwaukee Road painted car body, underbody and trucks the same color the painting of Milwaukee 713549 was not difficult.  I taped off the car body sides and using a Paasche Talon airbrush with a size 3 (.66 mm) needle I sprayed the ends and underbody.  I hand brushed any added detail parts not already painted.




Side of car detail parts hand painted.




Car body ends sprayed.



Underbody sprayed.




While the paint was drying I found MILW reporting marks for the ends and repack date in a used MILW decal set.  I made the end number decals by applying Clover House, set 9600-11, Railroad Roman  Condensed Bold White dry transfer numbers to decal paper and coating them with Microscale Liquid Decal Film.  Prior to applying the repack data and end decals I hand brushed Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 on areas to receive decals.  When Gloss Medium was dry, the decals were applied using Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol.




End decals applied.



Repack data decal applied.




After drying overnight, decals were coated with Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510.  Next, the uncoupling levers and eye bolt brackets were bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW and installed.  The uncoupling levers were hand brushed with the Vallejo Model Color mix saved from spraying the car body ends and underbody.  Again after setting overnight, the car end lettering and repack data decals were hand brushed with Model Master 4636 Flat Clear Acryl to protect the car during handling.




Uncoupling levers installed.



Weathering of this car began with study of weathered car photos.  Attempting to duplicate what I had seen in photos, I applied a light weathering using Artmatic reddish brown eye shadow makeup, Pan Pastels Neutral Grey 820.5, Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 and Prismacolor Dark Brown PC946 pencil.  Pan Pastels were applied with small and large makeup brushes and Micro applicators.  No clear coat was applied.



Light weathering applied.




Light weathering applied.



Milwaukee Road 713549 Box Car is an upgraded stand in with which I am pleased.  To be a better match to the prototype corner braces on sides would have to be installed which would ruin the factory lettering.  And, sides trusses should be angled on top and bottom as trusses on the Westerfield Models ends.  If one were to add the corner braces a decal set containing the correct lettering is available from the Milwaukee Road Historical Association for $25.  


Milwaukee Road 713549  was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  As for any build or upgrade, a car card was made for MILW 713549,  the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.



MILW 713549 spotted at
Minneapolis Freight House



MILW 713549 spotted at
Minneapolis Freight House





MILW 713549 spotted at
Minneapolis Freight House




MILW 713549 spotted at
Minneapolis Freight House





Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.




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Sunday, July 4, 2021

American Refrigerator Transit Co. 24029

From friends I obtained an Intermountain refrigerator car lettered for American Refrigerator Transit Company (ART) with number 20429.  The reefer came assembled and was missing a few parts as the brake housing and brake wheel.  I believe ART 20429 was RTR car.  Before doing any work on the reefer I decided I should do some research to see if it was worth the effort to repair and upgrade.

I found American Refrigerator Transit (ART) refrigerator data and photos in several good sources in my library.  Sources I used were American Refrigerator Transit (Signature Press, 2017), Railway Prototype Cyclopedia RP CYC 2 (RP CYC Publishing Co., 1998) and Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual Volume three: Refrigerator Cars (Speedwitch Media 2017).


The prototype cars were built in the St. Louis A.R.T. Company Shops with kits purchased from American Car & Foundry (AC&F) in late 1939 and assigned to class RS, series 24000-24099.  The kits included underframes, side assemblies and other steel parts.  Murphy panel roofs and square corner steel 4/4 dreadnaught ends came from Standard Railway Equipment Company.


A unique feature of these cars was the use of four horizontally placed steel sheets, two on each side of the door. The upper sheet overlapped the lower sheet where they were joined with a horizontal row of rivets.  I found the term “belt rail” used in one source to describe this unique feature.  Another unusual feature of these cars were the metal guard railings added to the edges of the roof near the ice hatches.




ART Photograph


The Intermountain American Refrigerator Car 24029 car body including lettering and trucks were a good match to prototype photos.  I only had to add or change some detail items.  Therefore, I began the upgrade of the obtained refrigerator by removing grab irons on roof, sides and ends, sill steps under doors, and on the “B” end cutting off the very oversize retainer line and brake rod between the chain and bell crank.  Rather than describe the step by step process of replacing the missing or removed parts I will provide a summary for each section of upgraded items.


On the underbody:

  • Intermountain metal  33” wheels installed into trucks with missing wheel sets
  • Couplers, Kadee #148 installed
  • Truck kingpins drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws
  • Trucks installed with Fastenal 1/4” screws
  • No changes made on underbody except paint applied to brake components.   All piping and brakes rods could be replaced with appropriate size phosphor bronze wire (PBW) in the future.



Underbody with no upgrade.
(Click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)



Work done on roof:

  • Repaired missing ice hatch latches with scrap styrene from bits box
  • Grab irons were bent from Tichy #1101 .010” phosphor bronze wire (PBW) with Yarmouth Models eye bolts without shoulder for corner legs
  • Kadee metal running board was installed on reefer when obtained.
  • Other older ART reefer series did not receive metal running boards until 1951.



Roof with new wire grab irons and repaired ice hatches.
Note: guard railings on roof edges by hatches.




Roof with changes and weathering.

                                      
                                       

Work done on sides:

  • Kadee bracket grab irons installed
  • Sill steps under doors installed, A-Line metal #29000
  • Ladders and placard boards were installed on reefer when obtained
  • New 1939 build date on left side of door removed.  A reweigh date to be applied.



Bracket grab irons installed.



Build date removed.  Reweigh date to be applied.

                                      


Work done on “B” end:

  • Intermountain brake housing with chain from parts box
  • Brake step, Plano Models Products #11322
  • Brake step brackets, Evergreen #8102 1” x 2” strip styrene
  • Brake wheel, Kadee Universal #2043
  • New retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” PBW
  • Brake rod between chain and bell crank, Tichy #1102, .015” PBW




Brake housing, incorrect Tichy Adjax brake wheel,
 retainer line, brake rod and uncoupling lever installed.



Brake step and brackets and 
wire bent grab irons installed.




"B" end finished including a
Kadee Universal Brake wheel.




Work done on car ends:

  • Grab irons bent from Tichy #1106 .0125” diameter PBW
  • Uncoupling levers bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” PBW
  • Uncoupling lever brackets, eye blots from parts box


 

ART 24029 factory applied paint and lettering is the 1931-1947 scheme with the exception of the boxcar red roof.  A.R.T. Car Shops began painting roofs boxcar red in 1948.  Paint used to hand paint detail parts added to ART reefer 24029 to match factory paint were Vallejo/MicroMark #29028X2 Reefer Yellow and Vallejo/MicroMark #29015X2 Boxcar Red.  Vallejo Model Color Black Grey 70.862 was used on trucks.  Vallejo Model Color Black 70.950 was used on sill steps and touch up of black factory painted areas.


The ART reefer was weathered with a light weathering with Pan Pastels, Payne’s Grey Extra Dark 840.1 on roof, sides and ends applied with a makeup brush.  And, on the sides I used Bradgon Powders “Old Yeller” applied with a small paint brush.  I do not apply a clear coat after weathering a car.




ART 24029 lightly weathered.


ART 24029 lightly weathered.


 

American Refrigerator Transit (ART) 24029  was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  As for any build or upgrade, a car card was made for ART 24029,  the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.




ART reefer 24029 at Food Producers




ART reefer 24029 at Food Producers.



A big “Thank You” to Ed Hawkins for the photo of ART 24000 and data for class RS, series 24000-24099.  The ART photo (above) shows that this series came with metal running boards when built in 1939.  And, for data to help with build of this car.  And, for permission to use photo in this blog post. 




Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.



Lester Breuer





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Friday, June 25, 2021

Running Board Milling

When describing the build of a freight car with a wood running board I may state I milled the running board thinner or to prototype thickness.  I have been asked why and how I do that.  Why?  A plastic or resin kit running board that is too thick, normally 4 scale inches, does not look right as it is a couple of inches thicker than the prototype.  A plastic running board may already be painted in the same color as the car body and a replacement if used may not match in color.  How I accomplish the milling task I will describe after a review of running board design standards.

The prototype freight car has one longitudinal running board that safety appliances from the 1943 Car Builders Cyclopedia tell us shall not be less than eighteen (18), preferably 20 inches in width, shall extend the full length of car at the center of roof and securely fastened to the car by saddle blocks  (roof saddles) which hold the running board at a level position.  The ends of the running board shall extend beyond the roof to not less than six (6) and not more than ten (10) inches from a vertical plane measured from the inside face of the car’s coupler.


On outside-metal roof cars there shall be two latitudinal extensions not less than twenty-four (24) inches in width from longitudinal running board to ladder locations except on refrigerator cars.


The common wood construction is of three parallel pieces separated sufficiently to allow snow and water to drain through.  The length and width of running boards may be made up of a number of pieces securely fastened to saddle blocks.  The safety standards do not give the thickness dimension for the wood pieces, however, the common size was one-one half (1 1/2) inches to two (2) inches thick.



Various wood running boards
Photo found on internet
(click or tap to enlarge)




Based on the common thickness dimension, I would like a wood running board to be between the two dimensions of 1 1/2 and 2 inches so I chose 1 3/4 inches or .020” in HO scale.  And, I chose .020” as that is an available Evergreen strip styrene size to make a jig to hold a running board during the milling process. 


The jig was made with .040” styrene for the base, mine is 1 1/4” x 7”, on which a running board could be placed and a pencil used to trace around it.  I used Evergreen .020” strip styrene to form a frame around the tracing to hold the running board when inserted.  I found the .040” styrene base to be an insufficient thickness when milling the running board so I glued the existing jig onto .105” styrene to create a thick sturdy base.




Styrene jig


Since I felt I could not justify the price of a mill, I use a Dremel tool mounted in a old style Dremel drill press stand.  The Dremel tool has a Dremel No. 199 cutter bit mounted in the chuck.  I originally found a mill setup described in the April 1982 Railroad Model Craftsman article “5 boxcar improvements” by Dennis Storzek.  I have attached a drill press stand vise into which I added a wood piece cut from a 2 x 4 to serve as my drill press stand table onto which the jig can ride during milling.  The cutter bit is set to just clear the .020” frame on the jig holding the inserted running board.




Milling setup



To start the running board milling process, I cut off the mounting pins on the back side of the running board and insert the running board into the jig with the back side up.




Running board inserted into jig of milling.


I hold the running board in the jig with two hands (not with one in photo as other holding camera), one on each side of the cutter, and push the jig under the cutter removing about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutter width from the running board.




Holding running board during milling.



The milling begins at one end of the running board and is repeated until the entire running board is finished.  You want to pace yourself removing the material as if done too fast you can heat up deforming or melting the running board.  I know from experience.




Running board milling started.



Running board milling complete


Once the running board milling is finished it does not have a real smooth surface so I use a single edge razor blade (SERB) as a scraper to scrape the back side of the running board to get a smooth back side.  You must hold down the running board while doing the scraping and do it carefully.  If not the SERB can catch the running board and break it due to its thinned thickness.  You could sand the back side to get the same result.



Single edged razor blade used as scraper



Running board scraped smooth.



My milling method does not always yield the exact target result.  Even after milling and scraping the running board may end up at around .025” thickness which is acceptable to me as that is a HO scale thickness of 2 1/8 inches.  


Once thinned, the running board is ready for mounting on the freight car.  The running board can be installed with various glue types: CA, Barge Cement (a contact cement) and Formula 560 Canopy glue. 




Running board milled as casting was too thick.



Running board milled for color match.



Running board milled for prototype look
and color match.



As myself I believe you too will fine a prototype thick running board makes for a better looking freight car.  And, the thin running board will provide you the satisfaction of having built a better model.




Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer





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