Pennsylvania X26c Box Car 104822

To add another eastern road car to my freight car roster, I chose a Funaro & Camerlengo, kit 8010, one piece body Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR) box car, number 104822, series 104260-107759.  The box car is a  USRA single-sheathed box car rebuilt in Pennsylvania Car Shops in 1945 to 1949  and placed in  PRR class X26c.  The rebuilt cars received steel sides, doors, running boards, power hand brakes, roofs and AB brakes.  The early rebuilt cars received a Murphy rectangular panel roof which this car has.  And, the car has a Youngstown steel door, one of the door types used.  The kit instructions have photos of cars numbered 104260  and 105969 in this series.   Sharper photos of 104260 showing side and 3/4 view are in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, RP CYC 17, (RPC CYC Publishing Company, 2008), on page 44.  An internet search of this PRR car class produces black and white and color images for modeling use including a sharp photo of 104260 on Steam Era Freight Cars.

Steam Era Freight Cars, Prototype Photo Gallery
Box car class X26c : rebuilt 1945, Hagley Museum and Library,
Negative No. 88, Box 2

Since the car body was a one piece body I began the build removing flash from the car body and fitting the under body.   Before installing the under body, I installed Kadee #262 coupler pockets with Kadee #148 “whisker” couplers inserted and modified Accurail #166, Andrews trucks with 33” InterMountain wheels.  I used the Andrews truck since many of the rebuilds retained their original Andrews trucks.  Other data sources list the trucks for this car as 2D-F3 with coil springs only and in parenthesis is Andrews.  Next the car body and under body with couplers and trucks were put on a postal scale to determine how much weight I needed to add to bring the car weight to 3.8 ounces.  I added weight needed using electrical outlet box punch outs.  A photo of the weights added to a car can be viewed in “resin car body assembly” on sidebar under “Labels”.

Under body installed after weight added.
(Click or tap on any photo to enlarge)

Once the under body was installed into the car body I decided to work on the side and end ladders.  I could not find any commercial ladders to match the prototype so I decided to scratch built them.  I used the Thales theorem, dividing  a line segment  into equal parts ( for these ladders the line is the distance between the top and bottom rung) to determine the placement of rungs for the seven rung ladders.  If you are not familiar with this method you can type, “divide straight line into equal parts” into Google to find videos describing and showing how to use this theorem.  Once I determined the rung spacing I made a pattern and I scratch built the ladders from with Evergreen #120, .020 x .020” strip styrene stiles and Plastruct #90850, .010” styrene round rod.  I have described the build of these ladders with photos in “ladders” on the sidebar under “Labels”.

Scratch built ladders installed

With the ladders installed, I added the side and end grab irons next.   The straight wire grab irons in the kit could only be used for the two sill grab irons on each end.   The other side and end grab irons on the prototype are a bracket type (not in the kit, only called “special” in the kit instructions).  I made the bracket grab irons with Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1101, .010” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW) and MEK Goop (plastic melted in MEK).  Of course, you could use commercial bracket grab irons if choose; however, none that I am aware of will match the type on this car (see prototype photo above).  I continued work on the sides by bending A-Line #29000, style “A” sill steps ("strap" or "stirrup steps") into the shape on the prototype and installing them.  And, after installing the kit provided doors, I removed the molded on door handles and added door handles bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  The kit placard boards for the doors were also installed.

Side with details added.

Next I turned my attention to the roof.   I replaced the kit running boards cast from resin and wire roof grab irons with Kadee #2000, Apex running boards.  Since the Kadee longitudinal running board brackets did not reach the molded on fastener portion on the car body, I cut them off and used Evergreen #8102, 1 x 2 “ strip styrene cut to proper length to replace them.

Roof with Kadee Apex running board added.

The “B” end details were added next.  I installed an etched Plano Model Products  #11322 Apex brake step (platform) which has brackets attached. I installed a Tichy brake housing and chain, and bell crank from set #3013.  The brake rod installed between chain and bell crank  is cut from Tichy #1102, .015” PBW.   A Precision Scale # 31796, retainer valve was installed followed by a retainer line and brackets, Tichy # 1101, .008” diameter PBW.  A Kadee #2041, Equipco, brake wheel was installed.  In other photos I looked at, the car had an Adjax brake wheel.  Uncoupling levers bent from Tichy #1106, .0125" diameter PBW  ( see "uncoupling levers" under "Labels" on sidebar) were installed in brackets made from Evergreen #291, .060" angle and shaped with PBL #803 nipper.   Finally, placard boards were installed on the “B” and “A” end.

"B" with added details. Note the running board brackets.

Note uncoupling lever and bracket.  

Next I installed the under body details which I normally do first; however, on this car last.  I used the resin cast brake components provided in the kit after drilling #79 holes in them to accept piping and making an additional change to the brake cylinder.  On the brake cylinder I drilled a hole into the front to accept a brake cylinder piston with clevis from Tichy set #3013.  Brake components were installed on mounting brackets provided in the kit.  Brake lever hangers, kit grab irons, were installed in #79 drilled holes whose spacing was determined using a divider, set to the width of the grab iron rung.  Brake levers were made with Evergreen strip styrene: #8108, 1 x 8” for the brake cylinder lever and Evergreen #8106, 1 x 6” for the floating lever.  The slack adjuster (floating lever fulcrum) was cut from the discarded resin floating kit brake lever and installed on the new styrene floating lever. 

Next the piping and brake rods were installed.  Piping from the air reservoir to the control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  The pipe from the back of the brake cylinder to the control valve Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW.  Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with clevises, Tichy #8021 turnbuckles, used to attach them to brake levers.  The chain  between the brake rod and brake cylinder lever is A-Line #29219, black 40 links per inch.  A train line, .019” diameter flora wire, was installed to which the dirt collector, Tichy set #3013, pipe was attached with a tee made with MEK Goop.

Under body with detail parts installed.

Once I had the under body finished, the car was moved to the paint shop. The car body was wiped with a makeup cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove any grime collected during the build.  After it was dry, the car body and under body were sprayed using an airbrush with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather #70.818.  After drying overnight the car body was sprayed with Polly Scale Clear Gloss Finish, F404100,  for a decal base and again let dry overnight.  Trucks were hand painted with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather and wheel sets Vallejo Model Color 70.682 Black Grey.

Car body sprayed with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather.

Lettering was done with kit provided decals applied with Microscale Set and Sol using photo sources mentioned above.  I chose number 104822 from the decal set as it was the closest to 104260.  After drying, the car body was sprayed with Vallejo Matt Varnish 70.520 to protect decals during handling.

Car body is lettered and clear coated.

After the car came out of the paint shop the car was weathered with a makeup brush and Pan Pastels: Burnt Sienna 740.3 brushed on car body and roof, Black 800.5 brushed over the the Burnt Sienna on roof , and Paynes Grey Ex. Dark 840.1 brushed on the under body.  I find you get a different weathering appearance using a brush rather than the Pan Pastel sponges.  After weathering and car card made, PRR 104822 rebuilt USRA box car was placed into service on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.

PRR 104822 waiting delivery in Minneapolis Chestnut Street Yard.

"B" end of  PRR 104822 in Minneapolis Chestnut Street Yard.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

West India Fruit & Steamship Company Box Car 323

I was asked by a friend to add to my blog my write-up and photos of West India Fruit & Steamship Company box car W.I.F. 323.  At his request, I am sharing them here since I built W.I.F. in November 2017 prior to starting my blog.

The Western India Fruit & Steamship (WIF&SS Co.), founded in 1946, operated a railroad car ferry between Palm Beach, Florida and Havana, Cuba until August 1961. During this period the WIF&SS Co. had a total of five car ferries similar in design to the ferries built for Great Lakes service to transport railroad cars to and from Florida and Cuba. The service was described as "The  Superior All-Rail Route to Cuba." In January 1952 the WIF&SS Co. took delivery of 150, 50-ton, 40'-6" box cars, W.I.F. series 200-349, from American Car & Foundry.   The 150 cars had features including 12-panel welded sides, 8' door openings, improved Youngstown steel doors, Apex Tri-lok running boards and brake step.  Additional data and photos of W.I.F. 323 and 234 can be found in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, RP CYC 29 (RP CYC Publishing Company, 2014) on page 112.

Yarmouth Model Works produced a W.I.F. resin car, kit #YMW-113 (still available),  that features the unique oil canning effect from welded car sides.  I purchased one to build for my  Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company railroad even though I was not sure the cars operated in the Midwest.  Upon discussing the new kit with several friends I found W.I.F. cars definitely were found in the Midwest.

Soph Marty photo, Clark Propost collection

Yarmouth Model Works kit is a one piece body kit so I began the build with the car body.  I added a baffle, Evergreen .040" styrene, inside at the center of the car body.  Next, I began the under body work by fitting the floor via sanding.  Bolster center plates and coupler pads were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  Kadee #262 coupler pockets with Kadee #148 couplers were installed with Accurail #150, 2-56 x 3/16" Phillips pan head screws.  Trucks, Kato ASF A-3 provided in kit,  were installed with Athearn #99002, 2-56 x 1/4" round head screws.  I like to have trucks and couplers installed and floor fitted to car body prior to placing it on a postal scale to find if additional weight is needed.  The car was weighted to 3.8 ounces, my standard which is slightly above the recommended NMRA 3.75 ounces, with electrical outlet box punchouts.

Car body and underbody is ready for assembly.
(Click or tap on this or any photo to enlarge)

Once the  Permatex RTV silicone adhesive sealant and glue used to attach the weights was dry, I installed the fitted under body.  To complete the car I installed detail parts on the car as follows:

Under body

- Cross bearers, cross bearer caps, crossties, and bolster caps, kit
- Brake components from Tichy AB brake set #3013, provided in kit, were installed using photo
   etched brass mounts, kit. Prior to install the components were drilled for piping.
- Brake levers and slack adjuster, kit
- Piping .010" diameter brass wire from air reservoir to brake cylinder, kit
 - Piping .0125" diameter brass wire from brake cylinder to control valve, kit
- Brake rods, .0125" diameter brass wire with Tichy Train Group turnbuckles #8021, for clevises
   to attach to brake levers
- Chain is A-Line, #29219, black 40 links per inch
- Train line, K&S .020" diameter brass wire
- Dirt collector, Tichy set #3013, kit


 

Under body ready for paint.

Roof

- Grab irons, kit
- Photo etched Apex running boards, kit, installed with Formula 560 Canopy glue.
- Running board extension brackets on ends of car, kit, with MEK Goop fasteners.

Roof with Apex photo etched running boards installed.

Car Sides

- Grab irons, bracket type, kit.  Yarmouth Model Works jig used to drill mounting holes.
- Ladders, kit, assembled from brass bent stiles and 18" rungs
- Pads for ladders, Evergreen #8203, 2 x 3" strip styrene
- Sill steps, A-Line #29000, style A, with styrene made mounting brackets on side sill
- Doors, kit, with handles made with kit brass etched ladder rungs and placard boards, kit

Note oil canning effect, brass ladders and bracket grab irons 

Bender and jigs used to fabricate ladders.

Car Ends

- Grab irons, kit
 - Ladders, kit, assembled from brass bent stiles and 16" rungs
 - Brake housing, kit, and brake wheel, kit
- Brake step and brackets, kit, with MEK fasteners, brake rod, .015" brass wire, bell crank, kit
- Retainer valve, Precision Scale #31796
- Retainer line and brackets, .008" diameter brass wire, kit
- Uncoupling levers, Tichy #1106, .0125" diameter phosphor bronze wire 
 - Placards, kit, with MEK (plastic melted in MEK) fasteners

"B" end of car

For finishing, West India Fruit number 323 was moved to the paint shop where Vallejo Model Color was used to spray the underbody Dark Grey Blue 71.054 (tarnished black) and car body German Uniform green 70.920 (dark green).

W.I.F. out of the paint shop ready for lettering.

Once the paint was dry,  I used Model Master 4638 Gloss Clear Acryl to spray car body for a decal base.  Decals used were in the kit except for stripes which came from my used Champ decals.  For the reweigh station decal I used New Smyrna Beach (NSB) rather than Bunnell (BN) for the station reweigh sight.  Hindsight, I could have cut up the NSB to get BN.   I did have to cut up decals to get the number and date I wanted to match the photo in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia RP CYC #29, page 112.  After decals applied were dry, I sprayed Model Master 4636 Flat Clear Acryl for a protective coat.

As every finished car, W.I.F. 323 is in service on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.

W.I.F. 323 on IB Fine Woolen Company siding

W.I.F. 323 on IB Fine Woolen Company siding.

I wish to say, "Thank You" to Clark Propst for sharing a Soph Marty  color photo from his collection to help with body color.





Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.
Lester Breuer

Pennsylvania X29 Design Box Cars 503920 and 504222

I have a majority of signature cars for Midwest roads on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company railroad, set in the spring of 1955; however, I am lacking some eastern roads for which the kits are still in the to build cabinet.  Therefore, time to build a couple of eastern road freight cars.  I began with two Red Caboose Pennsylvania X29 box car plastic kits which most accurately represent the prototype.  The cars were numbered for Pennsylvania X29 503920 with a three-panel car builder steel door (erroneously referred to as the "Creco" door) and 504222 with a Youngstown steel door.  Both cars have the 1930 to 1954 “Circle Keystone” herald (emblem, logo) and the PRR class 2D-F4 trucks. The prototype cars, series 503449-505948, were built in 1924 by Standard Steel Car Company.  Photos of cars in this series can be found in Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume One: Box & Automobile Cars, compiled by Ted Culotta (Speedwitch Media, 2006, 2007) on page 119.  And, Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, RP CYC 24, on page 24 in article by Patrick C. Wider (RP CYC Publishing Co., 2012).

Upon opening the kit box of 503290 , purchased at an estate sale, to begin the build, I found the two sprues with the ladders and the bottom door guides were missing.  I immediately opened the kit box with 504222 finding it contained the sprues with the ladders and bottom door guides; however,  I found the trucks were missing.   I decided I would use the ladders in kit 504222 on the sides of both cars and scratch-build the end ladders on both.  I would also scratch-build the bottom door guides on 503920.  Since I needed to use the ladders from the one kit on both cars, I decided to build both cars at the same time.  And, I put out the word for the needed missing trucks.  My friend Joe Binish came to the rescue providing the missing trucks.

I began the build by removing the remains of the injection sprue on underbody of both cars.  To do this I use a saw blade (do not know teeth per inch) mounted on a mandrel installed in a Dremel tool to make numerous cuts across the sprue to create thin rows of plastic easily removed with a chisel blade installed in a knife handle or dental pick.  (Caution: The saw blade mounded in the Dremel can be dangerous as a slip can cause extreme harm.  A protective saw blade cover can be purchased to mount on the Dremel for safer use.)  Once the remains of the sprue was removed the gap created in the molded on train line was filled with styrene round rod from my bits box.

Saw blade in Dremel tool used to make multiple cuts in injection sprue.
(injection mold sprue being cut on a MILW Rib Side box car)

Multiple saw cuts in sprue make injection sprue easier to remove.
(note: click or tap on this photo or any photo to enlarge)

Dental pick being used to remove injection sprue after cutting.

Now the underframe was glued in followed by the brake components previously drilled for piping if needed.  Molded brake levers with hangers and molded brake rods with nice clevises were installed.  Items not in the kit were installed next.  A Tichy Train Group (Tichy) air reservoir, set #3013, was used and relocated to the correct position when AB brakes were installed.  New mounting brackets made from Plastruct #9501, 3/64” styrene angle were used for the air reservoir and bent to shape for the control valve.  Bracket fasteners were made with MEK Goop ( plastic melted in MEK).  For piping from control valve to the air reservoir I used Tichy #1101, .010” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW).  For the brake pipe from the brake cylinder to the control vale and the brake rod from the brake cylinder lever I used Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW.  The chain on the brake cylinder lever to rod is A-Line #29219, 40 links per inch black chain.  Finally, the dirt collector pipe from control vale to the train line was made with Detail Associates #2506, .019” brass wire.

AB brake components and brackets located per X29 diagram.

Couplers pockets and truck bolster center plates were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  Kadee #148 whisker couplers were installed in the coupler pockets with Accurail #150, 2-56 x 3/16” screws used to secure the coupler pocket covers.  Into the kit trucks that had to be assembled, I installed InterMountain 33” metal wheel sets.  In the prototype photos you see chilled-iron cast wheels identified by the ribs on the backside of the wheels rather than the plain back which the InterMountain wheels have.  If you desire the ribbed back wheel sets use Walthers Proto 2000 33” ribbed black wheel sets, item #920-21259.  The trucks were installed with Athearn , #99002, 2-56 x 1/4” screws.

Underframe complete and painted.

With the underbody complete the car was weighted to 3.8 ounces with a weight cut from .040” sheet lead cut to the inside dimensions of the car and electrical outlet box punch outs.  The sheet lead weight was glued to the interior floor with Permatex clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant.  The roof was now installed to complete the car body followed by the running boards with Evergreen #8102, 1 x 2” strip styrene used to make the extensions brackets with fasteners made with MEK.  Latitudinal running board corner grab irons were fabricated from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with Yarmouth Model Works , YMW 356, etched eye bolts for corner legs.

Roof  and running boards installed.

Running board extension brackets with fasteners installed.

Next I did the work on the sides consisting of installing the kit doors, door placards, door guides on 504222, door stops, ladders and grab irons.  The door guide for 503920 was scratch-built with Evergreen strip styrene and extra triangles (on a sprue kit) with tops cut off with a single edge razor blade and positioned against the strip styrene as on door guide on 504222.   A drop grab iron, Tichy #3015, 18” drop type, was installed below the ladders.  The molded on sill steps were cut off and A-Line #29002, style “C”sill steps were installed into #76 holes drilled into the underside of the sill.  On the side sill the sill step mount is made with Evergreen .005” sheet styrene with embossed rivets.  The molded on door handles were carved off and replaced with door handles bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  On 504222 a new type single door stop replaced the two doors stops on 503920.  The rivets on the prototype used to cover the holes left when door stops removed were simulated with an awl ( a push pin) pressed into car side.

Note Car Builder door and two door stop brackets.

Note Youngstown door and single door stop bracket.

Car bodies were getting close to being finished with only the work on ends to do.  On the “B”  end I installed the kit brake step and brackets, retainer valve followed by a retainer line made from Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW. Now on 504222, the kit brake housing with a Resin Car Works Equipco brake wheel and brake rod were installed.  On 503920, a vertical brake shaft with the kit brake wheel was installed.  A bracket for the brake shaft step was bent from a flat strip of strip brass from the bits box. Next the kit grab irons and placard board were installed.  The scratch built ladders fabricated from Evergreen #8202, 2 x 2” strip styrene for stiles with Plastruct #90849, .015” styrene round rod used for the rungs to match kit ladder rungs ( for ladder construction method see “ladders” under “labels” on the side bar) were installed.  Finally, the uncoupling lever on 504222, bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with eye bolts for  mounting brackets formed from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW with an Xuron wire bending pliers (see “uncoupling levers” under “labels” on the side bar for bending method).  On 503920, a Yarmouth Model Works #400, carmer uncoupling lever was  installed on a mount made with a piece of styrene from the bits box with a wire installed in it for the hole in the carmer lever to mount on.  On the “A” end kit grab irons, placard board, scratch-built ladders and uncoupling levers matching the “B” end were installed.

Scratch built ladder and Resin Car Works
Equipco brake wheel installed on end.

Note retainer line position, Carmer uncoupling lever
and hand painted scratch-built ladder..

Note retainer line position and uncoupling lever
and hand painted scratch-built ladder.

With the car underbody and car body done,  I could proceed with painting.  To match the factory paint, I used a Vallejo mix: Model Color Red Leather, #70.818, 1 part, and Satin Varnish, #70.522, 1 part, to hand paint the underbody where needed, scratch built ladders and other added parts.  Once paint was dry the car was weathered with The following Pan Pastels:  Burnt Sienna 740.5 applied to sides and roof, Red Iron Oxide  Shade 380.3 for rust spots and Paynes Extra Dark 840.1 lightly on roof, grab irons, ladders and underbody.

Two X29 design box cars 503920 and 504222, eastern road signature cars, are in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.  

PRR X29 box cars at Little Chicago M&N Freight House.

PRR X29 box car 503920 at Little Chicago M&N Freight House.

PRR X29 box car 504222 at Little Chicago Freight House.

I want to say,  “Thank You.”  to Bruce F. Smith for providing me with information to locate the AB brake components in their proper location, Elden Gatwood for posting the X29 AB brake diagram on the RealSTMFC site on groups.io (message 163123) showing brake component and associated brackets location, Eric Hamsmann and John Golden for underbody paint color and Joe Binish for providing the needed set of trucks.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer