Sunday, June 16, 2019

Soo Line Box Car 45938 Upgrade

While setting up for an operating session I pulled Accurail Soo Line Box Car 45938 out of it’s storage box and set it on the Great Northern (GN) interchange.  As I looked at the car I thought it needed weathering and moved it to the workbench.  Upon closer examination of the car at the workbench I found I had not upgraded the car due to lack of data when I acquired the car in 1992.  So with no project on the workbench I decided the time to upgrade the car was now.  First I researched the car to see what the upgrade would require.

The prototype was one of 396 steel cars, series 45900-46698, with diagonal panel roof and R/3/4 dreadnaught ends.  The car was built in 1954 by Wisconsin Soo Line Fond Du Lac Shops.  A photo of 46238 appears in Soo Line Freight Equipment and Cabooses book ( Soo Line Historical and Technical Society, 2014) on page 21.  Accurail painted box car 45938 a lighter oxide red and lettered it with the lowered  Soo Line road name in large white “billboard style” lettering. The paint and lettering  on the model matches that in the photo  well.  I checked the car diagram in Soo Line  Freight Equipment Diagrams ( Soo Line Historical and Technical Society, 2013) finding the model dimensions matched the prototype well.  I also found here the car series had Superior & Equipco hand brakes, nailable steel floor and rode on ASF Ride Control  ASF A-3 or Barber S-2 stabilized trucks.  Checking my photo collection I found I had purchased a photo of Soo Line Box Car 45450 to help with this upgrade.


Essentially the same as the series 45900-46698
Collection of  author.
(click on this or any photo to enlarge)


My records for Soo Line 45938 show I built the Accurail car, kit 3218, in 1992.  At that time I painted the under body Floquil Grimy Black, #110013 which today can be matched  with Vallejo Model Color 70.862 Black Grey or Model Air 71.055 Black Grey RL M66.  I installed Kadee No. 5 couplers and Kadee 33” metal wheels in the Accurail AAR cast steel with spring plank kit trucks that are not correct for this car.  Therefore, I began the upgrade by changing the trucks to Athearn ASF A-3, #90400, that I hand painted Vallejo 70.862, Black Grey prior to installing the Kadee metal wheels from original kit trucks.

Next, the roof another easy change.  The kit running boards were removed and into the holes left from the mounting pins I inserted and glued plugs cut from kit sprues.  The plugs were left with 1/8” inch exposed rather than inserted flush with the roof.  After the glue set, the exposed portion of the plugs was squeezed with a square jaw pliers and sanded to create a roof saddle matching others on the car.  Next the molded on longitudinal running board brackets at the roof car ends were cut off to allow Kadee Apex, #2000, running boards with mounting pins and mounting pins on end brackets cut off to be installed.


Kadee running boards installed.


I now decided to do the most difficult part of the upgrade which is to change the molded on seven rung ladders with stiles too long to eight rung ladders with shorter ladder stiles on the sides and seven rung ladders on the ends to match the prototype ladder in photos.  The first step was carving off all the molded on ladder rungs on the sides and ends leaving the molded on stiles.  Being in the removal mode, I continued carving off all molded on grab irons on sides and ends, brake shaft and incorrect solid molded brake step (platform).  The brake step brackets are not removed as they are correct for the prototype.

Ladder rungs carved off  leaving ladder stiles.


Ladder rungs, grab irons, brake rod were carved off
and brake step removed.


With the ladders rungs carved off I shortened the stiles to match photos.   To locate the rungs I made a card with rungs locations found using the Thales Theorem ( used to divide a straight line into equal parts) and marked the locations on the car body to drill number 79 holes for the rungs.  If you are not familiar with this method you can type, “divide straight line into equal parts” into Google to find videos describing and showing how to use this theorem.

Ladder rung location car made with Thales Theorem.


I bent the ladder rungs (like straight grab irons)  from Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1101 .010” diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW) and installed them.



Ladder rungs to create eight rung ladder installed.



New ladders created by removing molded rungs
and adding correct number of wire rungs.


  After finishing the ladders, I cut off the incorrect style molded on sill steps.   A-Line, #29002, style “C” , sill steps were installed in #76 holes drilled in sill underside prior to install.  The sill step mounting strap on the sill on the side of the car body was added using .005" styrene with rivets added.  The molded on door handles were carved off and replaced with flattened Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  To complete the sides Kadee bracket grab irons were installed using Yarmouth Model Works jig to mark upper right and lower left mounting pin holes drilled with a #75 drill.  I use only the fore-mentioned two mounting pins rather than the four provided and cut off the other two with a nipper on the Kadee bracket grab irons to install them as I find that is sufficient to mount them and makes install easier.

Sill steps, door handles, and bracket grab irons installed.


I now continued to mount Kadee bracket grab irons made for car ends on the ends of the car.  After mounting the “B” end bracket grab, an Apex brake step was cut from an Apex Kadee running board and installed in the location of the removed brake step over the molded on brackets.  A  brake rod was cut from Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW and installed between the chain and bell crank to replace the earlier carved off one.  A retainer valve, cast in the M&N Shops, was installed followed by a retainer line and brackets made using Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW.  A Kadee Champion Brake wheel #2044, was installed.  To finish the “B” end work, uncoupling levers bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with eye bolt brackets, formed from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW were installed.  To learn how to bend the uncoupling levers you can click on "uncoupling levers" under "labels" on the sidebar.

"B" end with upgrade details installed.


Before proceeding to the under body work, I decided to hand paint all added upgrade details.  The added details were hand painted with Vallejo Model Air 71105, Brown RLM 26 a match for Polly Scale Special Oxide Red.

Side upgrade details hand painted.


"B" upgrade details hand painted.


I now turned my attention to the under body.  I had installed the kit brake components when I built the kit; however, I did not drill them for piping so that was done first using long drills.  Next I used an Umm saw to cut a slot in the clevis on the brake cylinder piston to allow it to slide onto the brake cylinder brake lever when inserted.  Brake levers were made with Evergreen strip styrene:   #8108, 1 x8” for the brake cylinder lever and Evergreen #8106, 1 x6” for the fulcrum lever. The slack adjuster was made with parts from parts box.

Next the piping and brake rods were installed. Piping from the air reservoir to the control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  The pipe from the back of the brake cylinder to the control valve Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW.  Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with clevises, Tichy #8021 turnbuckles, used to attach them to brake levers.  The chain  between the brake rod and brake cylinder lever is A-Line #29219, black 40 links per inch.  A train line, .018” diameter flora wire, was installed to which the dirt collector, Tichy set #3013, pipe was attached with a tee made with MEK Goop.


Under body only needing brake lever hangers to be completed.

Brake lever hangers, bent Tichy straight grab irons, were installed in #79 drilled holes whose spacing was determined using a divider, set to the width of the grab iron.  With under body complete the car was sent to the paint shop to have under body added details hand painted with Valllejo Black Grey 70.862.


Under body with brake lever hangers added and painted.


Time for weathering to be applied.  I applied the following Pan Pastels with a Pan Pastels soft sponge applicator:  Black 800.5 to roof, Neutral Grey 820.5 lowers sides and ends, and Burnt Sienna 740.5 to sides and ends.  I do not spray a clear coat over applied Pan Pastels so the car was ready for service.

Light weathering applied as built 1954
and my railroad set in spring 1955.



Light weathering applied.


Once out of the paint shop the car was put back into service on the Great Northern (GN) Interchange on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company (M&N) to serve customer needs.


Sitting on GN Interchange waiting pickup by M&N



Sitting on GN Interchange waiting pickup by M&N




Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.
Lester Breuer














Saturday, June 1, 2019

Union Refrigerator Transit Lines URTX 87292

My plastic car inventory is one less after completing Branchline Trains, kit 1218, a wood refrigerator car, Union Refrigerator Transit Lines, URTX 87292.  The kit instructions, well written and illustrated, provide a brief history and reference sources I used and others to obtain additional information on the prototype car.

The prototype was built by American Car & Foundry in 1927 as part of series 87000 - 87444.  The car was painted reefer yellow with a freight car red roof, ends and the rectangle under the door.  Under body, trucks, side ladders and other hardware on sides were painted black.  The paint scheme was a “billboard” variety lettered for leased service to the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway.  The “billboard” paint schemes lasted until July 1934 when the Interstate Commerce Commission ruled that refrigerator cars could no longer be painted with billboard lettering and  as of January 1937 could not be accepted for interchange service.  A photo of URTCo. 87105 in as delivered paint scheme can be viewed in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, number 5, page 53 (RP CYC Publishing Company, 2000).  A billboard scheme with the C.M.St.P.&P. herald to the right of the door and URTX lettering to the left of the door can be viewed on ventilated  refrigerator 88194 in the 1937 Car Builders' Cyclopedia (Simmons-Boardman Publishing Co., 1937).  The lettering scheme and herald location on URTX 87292 can also be viewed in the 1937 Car Builders' Cyclopedia on page 182; however, it is on a steel-sheathed refrigerator car.

My build began with the assembly of the fishbelly underframe which is cemented to the under body.  I drilled and tapped the coupler pocket pads and covers (after cutting off the mounting pin) for 2-56 screws.  I do not like truck pins supplied in the kit to mount trucks so I tapped the bolster kingpin for 2-56 screws.  The coupler pocket covers were attached to the coupler pockets with the kit provided 3/16” screws after Kadee #148 couplers were inserted.  The kit provided trucks into which I installed Intermountain 33” metal wheel sets were installed with Athearn #99002, 2-56 x 1/4 round head screws.  The kit weights, two bolt nuts,  plus two electrical outlet box punch outs were used to weight the car to 3.8 ounces prior to installing the under body.

With the under body in place the kit provided train line was installed.  I decided to add an “AB” brake system, Tichy Train Group (Tichy), set #3013, required as of 1937 on newly built or rebuilt cars rather then use the kit provided “K” system.  The brake components were drilled with a #79 drill for piping prior to install. The brake cylinder was mounted on a Sunshine Models bracket from the parts box.  The control valve was mounted on a Tichy bracket (set #3013) and the air reservoir mounts are plastic sill steps cut off other cars.  I made the brake levers from Evergreen strip styrene, #8108, 1 x 8 for the brake cylinder lever and # 8106, 1 x 6” for the fulcrum lever.

Next the piping and brake rods were installed. Piping from the air reservoir to the control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.  The pipe from the back of the brake cylinder to the control valve Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW.  Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with clevises, Tichy #8021 turnbuckles, used to attach them to brake levers except for the brake rod between the brake levers in the center sill.  I used MEK Goop (plastic melted in MEK) to make these clevises. The chain  between the brake rod and brake cylinder lever is A-Line #29219, black 40 links per inch. 

AB brake system installed


Next I completed the car body work.  First, I attached the sides to the inner body.  Next, the kit ladders, black on the sides and freight car red on the ends were installed followed by the kit black door latches.  I substituted wire grab irons bent from Tichy, #1106, .0125” phosphor bronze wire (PBW) on the sides and ends.  I added the second grab iron required on the sides as of 1932.  If you want to see details of bending the grab irons you can click on "grab irons" under "labels" in the side bar.  A-Line sill steps, #29000, style A, were installed and bent outward  as on the prototype photos.


Side details have been added.


On the “B” end I installed the kit retainer valve with the molded plastic retainer line cut off.  I fabricated a new retainer line and brackets with Tichy #1100 .008” diameter PBW.  A brake shaft, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW with the kit brake wheel attached was installed.  I bent and installed the uncoupling lever eye bolt brackets, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW followed by the install of uncoupling levers fabricated from Tichy #1106, .0125" diameter PBW.  The uncoupling lever mounting brackets are eye bolts bent from Tichy #1101, .010" diameter PBW.  If you want look at how I bend the uncoupling levers you can click on "uncoupling levers" under "labels" on the sidebar.


"B" ends details installed are hand painted with paint
mix closer to weathering color than factory color.


On the roof, the kit provided running board, hatches, hatch levers and hatch rests were installed.  The roof grab irons I bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW were installed with Yarmouth Model Works photo etched eye bolts for corner legs.  


Roof  with running board, hatches and hatch rests.

Roof bent corner grab iron with Yarmouth Model Works
eye bolt for corner grab iron leg.



I now had the car ready for the paint shop.



URTX 87292 is ready for the paint shop.


In the paint shop, I sprayed the under body Vallejo Model Air Black Grey RLM66, 71.055.  The trucks were hand painted Vallejo Model Color Black Grey, 70.892. For the freight car red to hand paint the details added on the roof and car ends,  I mixed the freight car red as follows:  Vallejo Model Color Cavalry Brown, 70.892, two drops with a small amount ( less than one drop) of Vallejo Mahogany Brown, 70.846, added.

The weathering of of URTX 87292 was next.  I applied Bradgon Weathering Powder “Old Yeller” with a makeup brush to the sides.  On the roof and ends, I applied Pan Pastels Burnt Sienna Shade, 740.3, with a makeup brush. Over the Burnt Sienna Shade, again with a makeup brush, the roof and ends were touched with the brush loaded with Pan Pastels Payne’s Grey Ex. Dark, 840.1.  I do not spray a clear coat after weathering so when the subtle weathering was completed to my satisfaction the car was put into service.

Car is out of paint shop and weathering applied.


After weathering, a card car was printed and the car went into service on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company (M&N) with the billboard paint scheme that at the time of rebuild would most likely have been repainted  and lettered into a simplified scheme.  I choose to use my modeler’s license to run this car with a few others that may not have the paint scheme in use in the spring of 1955, the time period of my Minneapolis &Northland Railroad Company railroad.


URTX 87292 spotted at Kruger's in Minneapolis.



URTX 87292 spotted at Kruger's in Minneapolis.





Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.
Lester Breuer




Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Grand Trunk Western Double Door BoxCar 585034

My freight car fleet continues to grow with the addition of a Funaro & Camerlengo, kit 6252, Grand Trunk Western double door box car 585034, series 584702-585201.  All prototype cars had Dreadnaught ends of three section design with 3-3-3 rib arrangement and a Hutchins Dry Lading roof.  Double door cars had 12’-0” door openings.   Standard components used on these cars included Youngstown steel doors with Camel hardware.  In the 1940s and later, AB brakes were added as were Ajax brake wheels.  The trucks were ARA cast steel sideframe type.  Photos of identical and  modified cars delivered at the same time to the Cental Vermont can be viewed in Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual Vol. One: Box and Automobile Cars (Speedwitch Media 2006, 2007) p. 97 and Model Railroader, August 2001 ( Kalmbach Publishing Co.) p. 65. 


GTW 585048  photo on Funaro & Camerlengo kit box


Funero & Camerlengo kit 6252 is a flat kit so assembly of the basic body is required.   After a quick review of the sides I found no support for the underbody to rest on when installed.  Therefore, I measured the thickness of the under body at the bolster  and used this measurement to draw a line from the bottom of each side.  Above the line I installed a styrene strip, Evergreen #135, .030 x 100” to make a support for the under body to rest on when installed.  Now, I assembled the car body.  Rather  than follow the assembly method in the instructions I used the method I have always used.  I glued each end to a side to form an “L”.  The two “L”s are glued together to form a basic box to which the roof is added.  For assembly details and photos using this method you can click on “ resin car body assembly” under “labels” in the sidebar.  I added additional bracing, Evergreen #164, .080 x .080” strip styrene in the corners and a baffle cut from Evergreen .060”, sheet styrene to prevent sides from bowing in.  


Bottom view of basic box with under body
 support and corner bracing.
(Click or tap on this or any photo to enlarge)


Top view of basic box with baffle and corner bracing before rood added.


With the car body assembled, I fitted the under body; however, it is not glued in yet.  First, the coupler pocket pads, after the Kadee #262 box location is determined, and bolster center plate are drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  The Kadee  coupler boxes with #148 couplers inserted were installed with Accurail #150, 2-56 x 3/16” pan head screws.  Accurail trucks with InterMountain 33” metal wheel sets were installed with Athearn #99002, 2-56 x 1/4” round head screws.  With trucks and couplers attached the under body is inserted into the car body and placed on a postal scale to determine how much weight needs to be added to bring the car to 3.8 ounces.   After adding the weight required, I use electrical outlet box punch outs attached with Permatex, the floor is glued into the car body. 

Under body inserted and glued into car body after weight added..


Next, I added the ladders to sides and ends.  The plastic kit ladders have a sill step molded as part of the ladder that is cut off prior to install.  I like to install the ladders on the car body first as they aid in positioning other parts such as the brake step on the “B”end.  After the ladders, grab irons, straight and drop wire type provided in the kit were installed on the sides and ends in #79 drilled holes below molded on fasteners.


Ladders installed after sill step portion cut off.


The roof was next.  The roof included in the kit is not a Hutchins Dry Lading roof  so I reworked it to look like one.  On a line drawn on the area in-between the roof ribs was scribed creating a groove into which Plastruct #90850, .010” styrene round rod was glued. A piece of cardboard with centerline was used to mark the roof with a line for the scriber to follow to cut a groove.  In the end of each roof rib a “v” notch was cut and filed to match the prototype.  

Cardboard with line for marking line on roof
 and scriber used to make roof modifications.


Kit roof modified to look like a Hutchins Dry Lading roof.


The  running boards provided in the kit were installed next.  The longitudinal  running board brackets on the car ends were made from Evergreen #8102, 1 x 2” strip styrene.  The latitudinal running board brackets are also 1 x 2 “ strip styrene bent to the rounded shape using a round needle nose pliers.  The corner roof grab irons in the kit were installed with Yarmouth Model Works #356, etched eyebolts for corner legs.



Hutchins Dry Lading roof I made with running boards installed.



Hutchins Dry Lading roof with running boards installed.


With roof complete, I went back to work on the sides.  The lower door tracks, Plastruct #90501, 3/64” styrene angle were installed with Evergreen #142, .040 x.040” strip styrene for backing under door area (visible in under body photo).  MEK Goop (plastic melted in MEK) was used to extend door guides onto door tracks.  On upper door tracks, end door stops were bent from Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1101, .010” diameter phosphor bronze (PBW) wire and installed.  Molded on door handles were cut off. New door handles bent from Tichy# 1101, .010” PBW installed.  A-Line # 29000, style A, sill steps (stirrup) installed in drilled #76 holes.  The sill step under the ladder is a #29000 straightened and rebent to shape to match prototype (best view of it is in ladder photo above).  Finally, the door placard boards were installed.


Side with all details installed.


Now I turned to the “B” end details. The kit brake step (platform) and brackets, brake housing and chain and bell crank, all from Tichy #3013 set in kit, were installed. A brake rod, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter wire, was installed in-between chain end and bell crank.  The brake rod clevis to attach brake rod to bell crank was made with MEK Goop; however, a Tichy turnbuckle could be used.   A Sunshine Models resin retainer valve from spare parts box was installed followed by a retainer line and brackets, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW.  A Kadee #2020, Adjax brake wheel was installed.  An uncoupling lever bent from Tichy #1106 .0125” diameter PBW was installed here and on the “A” end in mounting brackets, eyebolts bent from Tichy #1101, .010" diameter PBW.


"B" end with details installed.


With the car body details added I did the under body detail work.  Tichy AB brake components from Tichy #3013 set in kit were installed on the molded under body brackets with the exception of the brake cylinder.  The molded on brake cylinder bracket was removed ( see location in photo of under body above) due to being located too far back for the short brake cylinder piston clevis to reach the brake cylinder lever when installed.  A Sunshine Models brake cylinder mounting bracket from the spare parts box was installed forward of the old location (see new position in photo below).  The brake cylinder was mounted on the newly installed brake cylinder bracket.  The other under body details installed:

     - Piping from air reservoir to control valve, Tichy #1101 .010" diameter PBW
     - Pipe from back of brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1102 .015" diameter PBW
     - Brake levers, Evergreen #8108, 1 x 8" and  #8106 1 x 6" strip styrene
     - Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125" diameter PBW
     - Clevises, Turnbuckles, Tichy #8021, used to attach brake rods to brake levers
     - Slack adjuster is a resin part from parts box
     - Train line is .018" diameter flora wire
     - Dirt collector, Tichy set #3010
     - Tee and unions on piping made with MEK Goop (plastic melted in MEK)

To install the train line, I used a drill 4" long I made from .032" diameter K&S piano wire to drill the holes for installing the train line.


Under body with details installed.


The detail work on the car was now complete so I moved it to the paint shop.



Car is ready for paint shop.

In the paint shop the car is wiped down with a makeup swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove any build grime.  The car under body was sprayed with Vallejo Model Air #71.054, Dark Grey Blue.   The car body was sprayed with Model Air Vallejo/MicroMark #29015x2, Box Car Red.  Both Model Air paints are to be air brush ready; however I found were too thick for spraying out of the bottle and had to have thinner mixed into them.  My paint mix for both paints was 40 drops paint and 20 drops thinner.  For the car body, I had to make the mix three times to get the paint coverage I wanted.  Once dry, the car body was sprayed with Polly Scale #404100, Clear Gloss Finish for decal base.  The Polly Scale like the Vallejo paints had to be mixed with thinner and again 40 drops of gloss and 20 drops thinner.  The car was let dry overnight.  As the under body, the trucks were painted with Vallejo Model Air #71.054, Dark Grey Blue; however, hand painted rather than sprayed.



Paint applied.  Car ready for lettering.


Paint applied.  Car ready for lettering.

Under body in paint.


The next day decals provided in the kit and decals I made were applied using Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol.   I made the chalk marks decals by hand applying Vallejo Model Color White #70.951 white paint with a 3/0 brush to scrap decal paper and  the reweigh date by applying Clover House dry transfers, 1/32" condensed bold - white, from set 9600-11, to scrap decal paper.  Both chalk marks and Clover House lettering were coated with Microscale Liquid Decal Film to make a water slide decal.  Once dry the car body was sprayed with Vallejo Matt Varnish #70.520.




GTW 585034 lettered  after Polly Scale Clear Gloss  Finish was dry.


The next morning the car body was weathered using a makeup brush and micro applicators with the following Pan Pastels:  Burnt Sienna, 740.5 over entire car body, Raw Umber 780.5, No. 5 paint brush along sills, Red Iron Oxide Ex. Dark 380.1, with micro applicator very lightly over lettering to tone it down,  and Black 800.5 on roof and lightly over rest of car body.  The under body received only Paynes Grey Ex. Dark 840.1 applied with makeup brush.



GTW 585034 sitting on Dawkins siding.


"B" end photo of GTW 585034


After a car card was printed, Grand Trunk Western double door box 585034 car joined Grand Trunk Western one and one-half door box car 583699 in service.  GTW 583699, Funaro & Camerlengo kit 6651,  1 1/2 door box car has been in service since I built it in 2015.



GTW 585034 and 583699 on sitting on Dawkins siding.



Aerial view of GTW 585034 and 583699
to see scratch built Hutchins roofs.




Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.
Lester Breuer