Northern Pacific Gondola 59204 - Part Two

With the build of the two Northern Pacific (NP) gondolas complete (Part One), George and I moved them to paint shop for finishing to receive paint, lettering and weathering. Just as there were differences in the built, there were differences in the finishing methods.

George first sprayed his resin floor with Polyscale Mud prior to install. The floor metal boards were painted with Vallejo Black 70.950. George made a simple styrene mask that had a top and bottom stop that allowed the mask to slide and keep everything square; that is, straight lines when painting the alternating metal planks.

Painted floor before install.  George
(click on this of any image to enlarge)

Paint mask (jig).  George

Painted floor installed.   George

 I just installed the resin cast floor without painting it prior to install.

 

Cast resin floor installed.   Lester

If you read Part One of this build you already know George and I both had airbrushed the gondolas with Vallejo Surface Primer prior to moving to paint shop for final color. George used Vallejo Ghost Grey 73.615. I used Vallejo Grey 70.601. After Vallejo Surface Primer was dry both gondolas were sprayed in preparation for applying Archer retaining clips ( tie downs). George used Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish 36.701. I used Tamiya TS-79 Semi-Gloss applied with rattle can. After application of Archer retaining clips (tie downs) both gondolas were ready for finish paint.

 

Gondola ready for paint.   Lester

Now I hand painted the interior bolster floor plates Vallejo Model Color Natural Steel 70.864. The rest of the floor was hand painted Vallejo/MicroMark Model Air Depot Buff #29027X2. The Depot Buff was mixed by Vallejo for MicroMark to match the no longer available Floquil Depot Buff.

 

Hand painted floor.   Lester

Once dry, I taped off the bolsters and the interior was airbrushed with thinned Vallejo Model Color Black Grey 70.862. George airbrushed the interior Vallejo Model Air Black 71.057. I am sorry that both George and I both did not take photos of our progress at this point; however, below you will find interior photos once weathered.

 After airbrushing the interior George airbrushed the underbody as the interior Vallejo Model Air Black 71.057. I airbrushed the underbody Vallejo/MicroMark Model Air Tarnished Black #29022X2.

 

Underbody airbrushed.   George

 

Underbody airbrushed.   Lester

Now the car body was airbrushed.  Again George used Vallejo Model Air Black 71.057. I used Vallejo Model Color Black 70.950.

 

Car airbrushed.   Lester

Car airbrushed.   Lester

 

After the black was dry both gondolas were airbrushed with two types of Vallejo gloss to prepare the car body for decals. George used Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish 26.701 and I used Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470. When dry, we both applied the ordered Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association (NPRHA) #N3210 Gondola “From Scratch” Decals set. I did state ordered as the decal sets are not in the kit and need to be ordered separately. While waiting for the decals to arrive, it was suggested in Part One you download the instructions from the NPHRA website to assemble the kit. One additional suggested download is the lettering decal chart showing the decal sheet and where decals should be applied on the NP gondola.

 

Decal location aid.  Courtesy of NPRHA

 

Decals applied.   George

Decals applied.   Lester

Decals applied.   George

 

Decals applied.   Lester

With decals applied and dry, another gloss coat of Vallejo gloss to better hide decal edges. As before, George used Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish 26.701 and I used Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510. After drying, both George and I airbrushed the gondolas with Model Master Flat Clear Acryl #4636. The Flat Clear Acrylic provided an excellent base for weathering we both chose to apply.

George for this build used the airbrush with smaller tip (.3mm) and dusted some Pollyscale Mud and Dust on the sides, ends, interior and bottom. He followed up with Pan Pastels using soft paint and cosmetic brushes of various sizes to apply them. He also used Microfiber Brushes he finds come in handy to apply controlled small amounts.

On the sides George applied Pan Pastel Burnt Sienna, 740.5 to the vertical posts and also to the interior. He also used some Red Iron Oxide Shade, 380.3 to vary the shades. Burnt Sienna Shade, 740.3 was also applied to blend all colors together. He also used Black, 800.5 to darken the floor and tie all the colors together. Burnt Sienna Tint 740.8 was used to add some highlights as well. The underbody was treated in a similar matter; however, he tried to use lighter shades to bring out the details.

 

Car weathered.   George

Car weathered.   George

Car weathered.   George

I started weathering my gondola with the interior, I used Prismacolor Cool Grey, PC1061 and Prismacolor Light Umber, PC941 lightly on the wood boards. Pan Pastel Paynes Grey Extra Dark, 840.1 was used applied with sponge to darken floor area of bolsters, one quite dark. A makeup brush was used to apply the Paynes Grey Extra Dark lightly to the rest of the interior. To show a medium rusting Pan Pastel Burnt Sienna Shade, 740.3 was applied with a small paint brush. A cotton swab followed the application of the Paynes Grey Extra Dark with a makeup brush to blend everything together.

 

Gondola interior weathered.   Lester

The gondola body exterior as the interior was weathered with Pan Pastels. Again a makeup brush was used to apply Pan Pastel Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1. And, again with a small paint brush Pan Pastel Burnt Sienna Shade 740.3 was applied to the ribs to show a light medium looking rust.

 

Car weathered.   Lester

Car weathered.   Lester

Neither George or I apply a coat to seal Pan Pastel weathering after applied. All freight cars I build, as this NP gondola 59204, go into service on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad where I have found no problem with not doing so.

 Both George’s and my Northern Pacific (NP) gondola 59204 were now ready for service. Currently, George does not have a railroad so his NP gondola 59204 went into his display case. My NP gondola 59204 was put into service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.” A car card was made for NP 59204 , the final step to put the cars in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.  As on the Northern Pacific my NP gondola 59204 will deliver lumber and scarp.

 

Lumber load spotted at Team Track
in Randolph, Minn.

Lumber load spotted at Team Track
in Randolph, Minn.

Scrap load at Leone Foundry in
Eureka Center, Minn.

 

Scrap load at Leone Foundry in
Eureka Center, Minn.

 I want to say, “Thank You” to Dean O’Neill for providing background information on this build and upgrade. And, for permission to use Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association “Gondola Lettering Decal Instructions/Guidance” which can be found on the NPRHA website. Definitely, appreciated as without this aid the lettering of these builds would have been more difficult to accomplish.

 

 

 Thank You for taking time to read my blog. You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so. Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one. Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

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Northern Pacific Gondola 59204 - Part One

My friend, George Toman and I had discussed building the same freight car kit at the same time to compare ways we built that freight car.  When the Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association (NPRHA) placed, on their website, for sale a 13 post gondola, kit N3185, that would build into a Northern Pacific (NP) gondola, George called me asking if this could be the kit we would use.  I agreed this gondola kit would be a good choice for our build compare project.  Therefore, we each ordered a gondola kit for the build.  The gondola kit does not include decals so we ordered the required NPRHA #N3210 Gondola “From Scratch” Decals set.   If you are going to build a repaint or rebuilds you may also need to order NPRHA SET #N3209.

One more step you need to do is download and print the instructions on how to assemble this kit from the NPRHA website.   I would suggest doing this while waiting for the kit to arrived.   Why?  The kit instructions provide a list of additional parts and materials as the decals and stock for interior weight required to build this kit.

The prototype Northern Pacific 70 Ton 41-foot gondola was build by American Car and Foundry (AC&F) in 1952-1953.  On delivery the cars were assigned into NP series 59000-59499.  The cars had a  41 foot 6 inch inside length, 9 foot 6 inch inside width and a 4 foot 7 inch height.   The sides had 13 box-like irregularly spaced riveted posts, improved Dreadnaught fixed ends with rounded corner posts, and Miner handbrakes.  The solid bottom floor consisted of alternating steel and wood floor planks to provide a nailable floor.  The cars rode on 5 foot 8 inch A-3 Ride Control trucks.  The delivered cars received an all-black paint scheme with gothic block lettering.

Car Builders' Cyclopedia, 20th Edition, 1957
(Click on this or any image to enlarge)

Photos of these gondolas as delivered and later years are in the instructions.  In addition, in the instructions is an equipment diagram drawing for the NP 59000-59499 gondolas as delivered from AC&F.  A side view photo of number 59050 is in the Car Builders' Cyclopedia, 20th Edition, 1957 ( Simmons-Boardman Publishing Corporation, 1957) and a three quarter view showing “B” end is in Sunshine Models Prototype Data Sheet #67.3.

Sunshine Models Prototype Date Sheet #67.3

Before starting the build of the NP gondola one should check if the kit had all the parts as the photo of kit parts in the instructions.   George’s kit as mine had all the parts.

Kit parts.  Note warped body and floor.
George photo.

Next the check of the one piece body and floor for straightness and any casting imperfections.  My car body was fine for straightness when the top of the car body was laid on the workbench.  George’s car body was not.   The car body had a bow in it as can be seen in the parts photo above.   George used very hot water to soften the body and put it under weight to straighten it.

Car body under weight to straighten.

Both of our kits had a floor problem for straightness.  And, we both thought the floor casting lacked definition for showing the alternating steel and wood floor planks.   Our solution was a new floor.   George made a new floor with the alternating steel and wood floor using Evergreen styrene.  He mailed the new floor to me and I used it make a mold and cast a new resin floor.

Styrene floor made by George

Floor painted before install.  George

Resin cast floor installed.  Lester

The top flanges on both kits had imperfections which may be removed by sanding.  The best way to do this is by turning the casting upside down on a flat surface with sandpaper and moving casting back and forth.  The sanding may remove imperfections along with the poorly cast corner gussets.  I said the sanding may remove the imperfections as it did not on either car body.  I used MEK Goop and George used a model putty to fill the remaining imperfections which required some additional sanding to obtain acceptable top flanges.  

Imperfections on top flanges.
George photo.

Having addressed the casting imperfections, I now installed Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #3063 gondola corner gussets suggested in the kit instructions.  Later , I added MEK Goop to enlarge the gussets to cover the entire flanges.  George added his gussets made from styrene and added rivets harvested from an Athearn rotary snow plow.

Tichy gussets added to my gondola.  Lester

Gussets George made.

With the gussets installed, it was time to install weight in the one piece body designed to have a metal weight installed.

Gondola area showing where weight is installed.
Lester

I used .040” sheet lead cut to fit area for the weight and installed it with Formula 560 Canopy glue to obtain a car weight of 2.6 ounces. George used two KS #8241 brass strips .032 x 1/2 inch, to add weight the car.  On top of these George added a .010” KS #16402 sheet brass cut to car width to bring the car weight to 2.4 ounces.

Sheet lead weight installed. Lester

Brass weight installed. George

With the weight installed the resin cast floor was installed.  George prior to installing his resin cast floor painted the floor.   Prior to installing the floor, I drilled and tapped the underbody bolster center plates and coupler pocket pads for 2/56 screws.

Resin cast floor installed. Lester

Floor painted prior to being installed.  George

With the floor installed, the car was turned over on the workbench and the underbody work done.  Crossbearers, rivet plates over crossbearers and crossties, all resin parts in kit, were installed by both of us.  I also installed kit draft gear/coupler pockets with Kadee #148 couplers I installed.  The install of kit provided Tahoe Model Works (TMW) 70-ton A-3 Ride Control truck side frames into which I installed InterMountain 33” metal followed.

Crossbearers, rivet plates over crossbearers, crossties,
and couplers and trucks installed.   Lester

Crossbearers, crossties and train line
 installed. George

Both George and I continued with the underbody work installing the brake components from the Tichy #3013 AB brake set provided in the kit; however, both made some changes on other underbody detail parts.

On my underbody I made the brake levers from Evergreen strip styrene.  The brake cylinder lever from #8108,  1” x  8” and the floating lever from 1” x 6”.  The support pad for the floating lever is scrap styrene from the bits box.  I added a train line from .018” diameter flora wire later and a dirt collector tee made with MEK Goop.  And, my Tichy dirt collector was installed later.

Underbody brake components installed.

George used Yarmouth Model Works etched brass brake levers.   He installed a train line made with Detail Associates .019” diameter brass wire.  In the train line George installed a 3D printed tee for attaching the dirt collector pipe.  The Tichy dirt collector is attached to the AB valve.

Underbody brake components installed.

Moving on with the underbody work George and I installed the brake piping and brake rods using the same Tichy phosphor bronze wire (PBW) sizes as follows:

• Air reservoir to AB valve, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW
• Brake cylinder to AB valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
• Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW

For brake rod clevises to attach brake rods to brake levers, I used MEK Goop to make them and George used Tichy turnbuckles #8021.  For the chain I used Precision Scale #48533 34 links per inch brass chain and George used A-Line black 40 links per inch.  George also installed the air release rod and brackets.  And, we both used kit brake lever hangers.

Underbody brake work completed.

Closer look at completed brake.  Lester
 

Completed brake work.  George

With underbody work finished it was onto the the car body work.  We both used installed grab irons bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW on sides and ends.  I used  A-Line sill steps #29001, style B, on the sides.  George used A-Line sill steps#2900, Style A, however he modified them.  He shortened them a bit as stock ones he felt were too long 

Grab irons and sill steps installed.  Lester

Modified sill steps.  George

Now it was time to do the “B” end detail work.  Of course,  we did it different.

On the “B” end I installed the following details:

• Kit ladder cut in half to make ladders.  Molded on rungs cut off.  New wire ladder rungs bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW installed.
• Brake step, Plano #11322, with Tichy brake step brackets from set #3013 in kit
• Moloco Miner brake gear (housing) in the kit installed.
• Brake gear handle cut from styrene handle installed.
• Bell crank with clevis cut from brake cylinder rod from Tichy set #3013 in kit
• Chain from Tichy set #3013 in kit
• Retainer valve, Precision Scale #31796, installed.
• Retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW, installed.
• Kadee Miner brake wheel in kit installed.
• Uncoupling levers and etched brackets, Tangent in kit

"B" end details installed.

On the “B” George installed the following details:

• Yarmouth Model Works (YMW) etched 16” rung ladder stiles YMW-303, cut to to make ladders.  Wire ladder rungs bent form Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW installed.
• Brake step with brackets, Ajax Brake Step from parts box
• Moloco Miner brake gear (housing) in the kit installed.
• Brake gear mounting plate cut from styrene.
• Brake gear handle cut from styrene handle installed.
• Bell crank, Tichy set #3013 in kit
• Brake rod clevis, Tichy turnbuckle #8021
• Retainer valve, Precision Scale #31796, installed.
• Retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW, installed.
• Kadee Miner brake wheel in kit installed.
• Etched Air Hose Brackets YMW-506
• Etched uncoupling levers (Cut Levers) Brackets YMW-508
• Uncoupling levers, Tangent in kit 
• Tangent Rubber Air Hose- Type 2

"B" end details installed.

All the kit detail parts and upgrade parts George and I added were now installed except for the Archer Resin Surface Details Retaining clips (hold or tie downs) AR88190, to be added to the sides.  I wiped the car body with a cotton swab dipped in 91% alcohol.  Immediately after, I airbrushed the gondola car body with Vallejo Surface Primer Grey 70.601.  When dry I sprayed the car body with Tamiya TS-79 Semi Gloss Clear with rattle can to have a surface to apply the Archer retaining clips.  When dry, I used a paper guide to apply a straight dashed line with a pencil on the side for applying the Archer retaining clips.  And, the Archer retaining clips were applied using Microscale Micro Set.

Car body prepared for retaining clips.

Paper jig made to apply pencil lines.

Retaining clips ( tie downs ) installed.

George’s prep included washing the car body with Dawn and warm water, drying it and spraying it with Vallejo light gray primer 73.615.  After drying, he applied a Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish 26.701.  When dry, he marked a straight line on the side with pencil for Archer Retaining Clip AR88190, application.  And, the Archer retaining clips were applied.

Retaining clips ( tie downs ) installed.

George’s gondola and mine were now ready for the paint shop to be painted, lettered and weathered.

Ready for the paint shop. 

The painting, lettering and weathering of  will be covered in Northern Pacific Gondola 59204 - Part Two.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

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