Home Road Refrigerator M&N 9299

Just as on a prototype railroad the adding of cars to the fleet to serve customers is necessary.  The same is true on an operating model railroad.  On my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Freight Car Roster I have a small number of refrigerator cars.  I found that at times the call for a home road refrigerator car could not be filled.  Therefore, time to add another refrigerator to the fleet to fill the need.

Two of the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad
 Comapny refrigerator cars in McGregor Yard in Northfield.
(click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)

To add a refrigerator car to the home road fleet I chose a Pacific Fruit Express (PFE) refrigerator car, kit RC-4101-12, for the build.  The kit, obtained from a friend, was missing parts including underframe parts, bolsters, running board, trucks and couplers.

I began the build by assembling the car and the conversion by removing the PFE lettering from the car with a scratch brush and cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The lettering proved difficult to remove resulting in paint removal from the car body that would have to be touched up.  I initially left an extra nine in the car number that I removed later to better match the number series on the current roster.  And, I forgot to remove the PFE class lettering that I also removed later.  I used a mix of Vallejo Model Air/MicroMark Reefer Yellow #29028X2, 2 parts and Model Color Bright Orange 70.851, 1 part for a close match to the orange and a mix of Vallejo Model Color Mahogany Brown 70.846, 50% and Cavalry Brown 70.982, 50% for a match to the red.

Lettering and herald removed.

End lettering removed.

With the lettering removed I began working on the underframe.  From the parts box, I installed a Train-Miniature (TM) underframe on which I had cut off the coupler boxes.  I also cut the bolsters free of the center sill to allow them to be installed separately.  I drilled and tapped the coupler box pads for 2-56 screws.  I installed Kadee No. 5 coupler boxes with No. 5 couplers installed in them with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws.  Accurail ARA cast steel with spring plank trucks were installed with InterMountain 33” metal wheels.  Trucks were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws.

Train-Miniature underframe installed.

After looking at the installed underframe for a time I felt I could improve on the looks to better match a prototype underframe.  I removed the Train-Miniature center sill with frame members attached and began reworking it.  The cross ties were made by turning over the underframe and cutting along the existing cross tie center section to remove the outer flange.   Next, the same cuts were made on the the cross bearers to remove material to narrow them as the cross ties.  The underframe was reinstalled; however, more work needed.

Scrap Evergreen .060” inch styrene was cut to form a right triangle for the cross bear center section and glued to cross bearer portion that had been left with the right angle next to the center sill.  A triangle shaped rivet plate was cut from Evergreen .005” sheet styrene.  Rivets were added to the rivet plate with a RB Productions, RB-T009, riveting tool.  After rivets were added, the rivet plate was glued to the top of the right triangle cross bearer center section previously installed.  I now felt I had acceptable cross bearers.  Brake components, air reservoir (kit), brake cylinder and control valve Tichy Train Group (Tichy) set #3013 were installed next.  I did not like the way I mounted the control valve so later I moved it onto a new bracket between the side sill and stringer.

TM underframe reworked.  On right cross bearer
rivet plate left off to show center of cross bearer.

Control valve moved and underframe painted.

I did not want the ends of the cross bearers and cross ties showing on car sides so I installed Evergreen #143 .040” x .060” strip styrene to the existing side sill on each side to make a wider side sill as other reefers had.

Styrene side sill added to the car.

  

Next following kit instructions, ladders, ice hatch plugs, ice hatches, a Funaro & Camerlengo resin running board from parts box were installed.  I hand painted the new side sills and underbody Vallejo Model Air Dark Grey Blue 71.054.  On the side sills the air brush provided each of us at birth was used.  After paint is brushed on , you pucker your lips and blow over the painted area.

Ladders, ice hatch plugs, ice hatches and 
running board installed.  Add on to side sill painted
and PFE class letting removed.

Ladders, ice hatch plugs, ice hatches and 
running board installed.

Back to the roof to complete install of running board end brackets.  End brackets are made with Evergreen #8102, 1” x 2” strip styrene.  To complete the roof work I installed the roof grab irons bent using Tichy #1101, .010” phosphor bronze wire (PBW) with Yarmouth Model Works eye bolts without shoulder for corner legs.   I continued to install all remaining grab irons on sides and ends, Tichy #1101, .010” PBW.  Once grab irons were installed, the sill steps, A-Line # 29000, were installed.  The sill step under the door is a # 29000  sill step bent to shape.

Running board brackets and roof grab irons installed.

Grab irons and sill steps installed.

I moved onto the “B” end to complete the work needed there.  Brake step brackets (kit), brake step (Tichy set #3013), brake housing (kit), retainer valve (kit) and bell crank (kit) were installed.  A brake rod, Tichy #1102, .015” PBW and a retainer line, Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW were installed.  Now the kit brake wheel was installed.  The final detail items installed were the uncoupling levers bent from Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW with eye bolt brackets bent from, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW.

"B" end detail install is underway.

Uncoupling lever and brake wheel installed.

Underbody details which I normally do first were completed now.  Under body details added were as follows:

• Piping from air reservoir to control valve, Tichy #1101, .010” PBW
• Train line, .018” flora wire
• Brake cylinder brake lever cut from , Evergreen #8106, 1” x 8” strip styrene
• Floating brake lever cut from, Evergreen #8106, 1” x6” strip styrene
• Brake lever hangers, Tichy #3021 18” straight grab irons
• Slack adjuster, parts box with mounting brackets made from .005” styrene
• Brake cylinder pipe, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
• Dirt collector, resin cast in M&N Shops
• Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
• Brake cylinder rod lever chain, A-Line #29219 black 40 links per inch
• Brake rod clevises, Tichy#8021 turnbuckles
• Ice bunkers drains, kit
• Fasteners made with MEK Goop (MEK with plastic melted in it)

Underbody details installed.

M&N refrigerator 9299 was ready for final paint and lettering.  The trucks and wheels were hand painted with Vallejo Model Color Black Grey, #70.862. The car underbody was sprayed Model Air Vallejo Dark Grey Blue, 71.054.

Underbody sprayed.

Once the paint was dry, The car body was sprayed Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470, thinned 50% with a custom mix of distilled water, Vallejo air brush thinner #71.161 and Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver 71.562, to have a Gloss base for decal application.  Private name Champ decals were used for the railroad name and a 36 inch herald printed on an Alps printer was applied to sides.  On the ends, reporting marks and numbers are applied decals I made with Clover House #9600-11, Railroad Roman Condensed bold white 1/16” dry transfer lettering applied to decal paper and coated with MicroScale Liquid  Decal Film.

Side decals applied.

End decals applied.

After drying overnight, the car body was sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Varnish #70.510 to better  hide edges and protect decals.  Again when dry, the car body was sprayed with Model Master 4636 Flat Clear Acrylic to prepare car body for weathering.  When Model Master Flat Clear Acrylic was dry, a very light weathering with Pan Pastels: Payne’s Grey Extra Dark 840.1 on the car body and Red Iron Oxide Extra Dark 380.1 on ends and end lettering.

Side view weathered.

Weathered "B" end.  Note cuts in 
lettering to get stenciled on look.

Car weathered and ready for service.

M&N refrigerator car 9299 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made for refrigerator M&N 9299,  the final step to put the car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

M&N refrigerator 9299 being iced.

Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company
 refrigerator 9299 being iced.

M&N refrigerator 9299 being iced.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

.

Stock Pen Improvements

 Learning something new each day makes it a great day for me.  This years Modelers Retreat presentations were no exceptions.  The Modelers Retreat is a Railroad Prototype Modelers (RPM) event, this year virtual, put on by the Twin Cities Division of the Thousand Lakes Region of the National Model Railroad Association.  Doug Harding’s presentation “Railroad Facilities for Handling Live Stock” included photos of stock pens showing various features.  One feature that stood out for me in prototype photos was foot boards.  Foot boards allowed the various people involved with the loading or unloading of cattle at the stock pens to stand on them rather than in the pens or hanging on the pens fencing.

Douglas Harding Collection
(Click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)
Note foot boards on top of fences and
side of chute.

Douglas Harding Collection
Foot boards on side of chutes being used.

Douglas Harding Collection
Foot boards on top of fences being used.

In the presentation charts showed that most towns on railroads in the Midwest contained one of two pen stock pens.  On my railroad, the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company (M&N) located in central Minnesota in the town of Little Chicago,  I have stock pens called “Bumsteer Stockyards.”

Bumsteer Stock Pens before foot boards were added.

While watching the presentation stock pen prototype photos I realized my stock pens, a Campbell kit built in the mid seventies, were missing this neat feature of foot boards.  It was time to make the improvement.  I contacted Doug Harding asking if he could help with board sizes to accomplish the task.  He provided plans that showed 2” x 6” and 2” x 8” boards used to construct the foot boards along the chute.  I did not find the exact size for the foot board on top of the pen sides so I chose  2” x 12” boards which looked right to me from viewing prototype photos.

Douglas Harding Collection

Douglas Harding Collection

I began the project by removing the stock pens from the railroad (they are removable) and moving them to my workbench to make the foot boards improvements.  Next the scale lumber needed was taken out of the supplies cabinet.  Scale lumber used for the project was as follows:

 - Northeastern Scale Models 2” x 8” scale lumber

 - Midwest Products Micro-cut Scale Lumber #8003, basswood 2” x 6” scale lumber

 - Midwest Products Micro-cut Scale Lumber #8006, basswood 2” x 12” scale lumber

After measuring board lengths needed, I cut the scale lumber to length of boards needed and glued them with Elmers White glue to the locations on the Bumsteer Stock pens.  I used a 2” x 12” board for the foot board on top of the fences and a 2” x 6” next to a 2” x 8” for the foot boards along the chute.  These boards sat on top of foot board supports, 2” x 6” size boards,  attached along the chute.  The foot board supports were cut on a Northwest Shortline Chopper since several of the same size were needed.  The angle on board ends for support boards ends mounted to the posts was 45 degrees.

Foot boards are added to fences and
sides of loading chute.

Once the foot boards were added, the stock pens were moved back to their location in Little Chicago on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.  The new boards could be left as is using improvements as a reason; however, I preferred to have a finished look.

Therefore, the final step to finish the project was to stain the added boards to match the existing stock pen boards.  Again stock pens were moved back to the workbench.   I first applied a coat of iodine purchased at the local drug store.   No need to wait until iodine was dry so I immediately followed with dirty Dio-sol and bottom residue in the bottle.  Dio-sol (no longer available) is a paint thinner for solvent base paints I mix using Xylene 50% and Toluene 50%.  Once the staining was finished, Bumsteer Stockyard pens were placed back in Little Chicago for cattle movement to Northfield or South St. Paul stockyards.

New foot boards stained.

Three quarter view Bunsteer stock pens to see
 the foot boards on side of chute.

The knowledge gained in Doug Harding’s presentation proved once again the old saying, “our railroads are never done”. 

A  big “Thank You” to Doug Harding for the photos and plans to help make this stock pen foot board improvement and for permission to use  photos and plans in this blog post. 

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

.

Northern Pacific Box Car 12833

 My latest build is a Sunshine Models, kit 52.3, Northern Pacific double-sheathed boxcar 12833.  I had this flat kit in the to build cabinet for some time before Rapido Trains, Inc. produced a very accurate Ready-To-Run (RTR) version of this box car in several paint schemes.  Since I purchased several of the RTR cars this kit was not high on the build list; however, I felt it was time to build it to join the NP Rapido cars on the roster.

The prototype cars were Northern Pacific (NP) 10000 series double-sheathed boxcars built by various builders between 1923 and 1932.  NP assigned the cars into several series starting at 10000 and ending at 14499.  The double-sheathed box features included radial roof, Murphy 7/8 corrugated ends on the first 4000 cars,  Miner Ideal lever style brake, massive fish belly center sill underframe and a three brake lever arrangement on the underbody per NP series 10000 underframe diagram.  The cars rode on 40 Ton trucks.  Photo sources and additional information on the cars can be found in:  Sunshine Models Prototype Data Sheet # 52A provided in the kit, Railroad Model Craftsman, July 2003, Ted Culotta’s article, Essential Freight Cars: 4, NP’s 10000-series double-sheathed boxcars, NP Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment (Morning Sun Books, 1995) and Railroad Picture Archives.

Railroad Picture Archives
Paint scheme prior to the one in photo below.
(click or tap on image to enlarge)

After reviewing photos I had available, the kit contents and decals provided, I decided to number  my car 12833.  The prototype was built by General American Car Company in 1923 that Northern Pacific (NP) assigned to series 12000-12999.  Over the years these cars had different lettering schemes.  Since my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company railroad is set in the spring of 1955 I would use the scheme adopted in the early 1950’s that featured the arched Northern Pacific, the 48” monad herald and the slogan “Main Street of the Northwest.”

Sunshine Models Prototype Data Sheet N. 52A
A car with paint scheme in the series I was building.

As with every flat kit I began the resin car body assembly consisting of sides and ends.  An underbody support, the length of the car, cut from scrap resin was installed on each side.  Baffles cut from Evergreen .060” sheet styrene were added inside car body to prevent inward bowing of car sides in the future and to help support the underbody upon install.  The radial roof was installed to complete the car body.

Car body assembled with underbody supports
and baffles.

Radial roof installed.

With the car body assembled I continued with the underbody.  Coupler pads and bolster center plates were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws.  Kadee #262 narrow draft gearboxes with Kadee #148 whisker couplers installed were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 3/16” screws.   Tahoe Model Works 40 Ton ARA trucks, TMW-115, were temporarily installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws. Weight was added to the inside portion of the underbody to bring the car weight 3.8 ounces and the underbody was installed.

Under body installed.

I removed the trucks to continue the underbody work.  I installed the bolsters, bolster rivet plates,  cross bearers and cross ties.  

Bolsters, cross bearers and cross ties installed.

Next I installed the brake mounting brackets and Bowser brake components provided in the kit.  The mounting brackets for the air reservoir are plastic sill steps cut from a plastic car, slack adjuster for floating brake lever is from parts box, and third lever mounted in front of the brake cylinder lever is one from a Tichy Train Group (Tichy) set #3013 with a bracket made from scrap resin flash.

Brake components installed.
Note: third lever in front of brake cylinder.

The car body was ready for detailing.

"A" end with lumber door.

I started car body detailing with the roof.  The wood longitudinal running board (kit) was installed with Formula 560 Canopy glue.  For end brackets Yarmouth Model Works photo etched end brackets were installed.  Roof lateral running boards (kit) were installed with brackets I made from photo etched brass.  I used a scrap “L” shaped photo etched brass piece so I only had to bend the ends downward to mount on the sides and ends.  Bracket fasteners were made with MEK Goop.   Roof corner grab irons (kit) were installed with Yarmouth Model Works eye bolts without shoulder for corner leg.

Roof details installed.

Note lateral running board bracket.

With roof detailing finished, I moved to detailing the sides.  Straight grab irons (kit) were installed for side ladder rungs in holes drilled with No. 79 drill.  One unique NP feature on the side ladders was the last rung has a drop shape (step) on the right side. The other grab irons I bent from Tichy #1101, .010” phosphor bronze wire (PBW). 

Grab irons for ladders and other installed.

Now I began the most difficult part of the build; the end ladders which per NP 10000 diagrams were 15” wide ladders.  Frank Hodina, who created the masters, created the 2” x 2” stile near the corner with the ladder mounting brackets that look very good.  Therefore, I kept the molded on end stiles.  The most difficult task was cutting the inner resin ladder stile from the molded parts sheet and sanding it and thinning it with a single-edged razor blade to proper width.  In addition, the drilling of the resin stiles with a No. 79 drill is not easy and has to be done with great care.  Once done and installed as on the sides the straight grab irons except the last rung which as on the sides has the drop shape (step) on the right were installed.

End ladders installed.  Note last rung with
drop shape step) on the right side.

With the ladders complete, the “B” end detail work was next.  The brake step (platform) with rounded corners (kit) and brackets cut from Evergreen #8102, 1” x 2” strip styrene with MEK fasteners was installed.  The brake rod sill step, a A-Line #29000 sill step, was bent to shape per prototype photos and installed.  Now I added the, Minor Ideal lever-style hand brake.  I used the body (kit) after some shaping and adding the portion ( black portion) I could see in photos on the left side.  Before adding the Tichy, set #3013, plastic lever (in my opinion the resin lever too fragile), I installed the retainer valve (kit).  After adding the handle, the brake rod, Tichy #1102, .015” diameter PBW and retainer line Tichy #1100, .008” diameter PBW were installed.  Placard board (kit) with MEK made mounting straps was installed here and on A end.  Next, grab irons I bent using Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW were installed.

"B" end all details installed.

Back to the underbody to add the piping, brake rods and other details as follows:

• Train line, .019” flora wire with green color
• Chain from brake cylinder lever to third lever, A-Line #29219, black 40 links per inch
• Bracket for third lever I attached to cross bear flange, resin flash
• All fasteners MEK Goop ( plastic melted in MEK)
• Piping from air reservoir to brake cylinder, Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW
• Pipe from back of brake cylinder to control valve, Tichy #1106. .0125” dia. PBW
• Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
• Brake rod clevises formed with MEK Goop
• Slack adjuster on floating lever from parts box
• Dirt collector, flora wire pipe with scrap plastic pieces and MEK Goop
• Dirt collector pipe to train line tee, MEK Goop
• All fasteners MEK Goop

Underbody from third lever side.

Underbody from slack adjuster side.

With underbody work complete I went back to the sides and installed the kit doors.  I like to install them as near the end of the build as possible to have an area to hold car during build that will not be visible on the finished car.  I did remove the molded on handle and replace it with one bent from Tichy #1101, .010” diameter PBW ( can be only seen in car painted photos).  I added the sill steps, A-Line #29000 bent to shape using NP photos, in No. 76 hole drilled in side sill. 

Doors and sill steps installed.

Back to the B end to add the uncoupling levers.  I bent the uncoupling levers from Tichy#1106, .0125” diameter PBW and installed them with the Detail Associates eye bolts, #2206, provided in the kit.

Uncoupling levers installed.
Note the sill steps to match NP prototype.

NP double-sheathed boxcar 12833 was ready for paint.  The trucks and wheels were hand painted with Vallejo Model Color Black Grey, #70.862. The car underbody was sprayed Model Air Vallejo Dark Grey Blue, 71.054.

Underbody painted.

 The car body was sprayed with a Vallejo Model Color mix:  Black Red #70.859 70 percent and Flat Yellow #70.953, 30%.  Once the paint was dry, the car body was sprayed Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to have a Gloss base for decal application.  After drying overnight, decals provided in the kit were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush.   After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied.  Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel.  When dry, car body sprayed with Vallejo Gloss Varnish 70.510 to better hide decals edges.  Finally, the car body was sprayed Model Master Acryl 46636/Flat Clear Acryl to protect the car during handling.

NP 12833 side view painted.

NP 12833 3/4 view painted.

NP 1283 "B" end painted.

And, after clear flat coat was dry, I weathered the car body with Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 applied with a makeup brush.  A damp Q tip was then used to wipe away some of the applied Paynes Grey Extra Dark in various areas.  A Prismacolor pencil, warm grey PC 1054, was used to streak a few boards here and there.  Artmatic brown eye shadow makeup was to add rust to trucks. 

NP 12833 has been weathered.

NP 12833 has been weathered.

NP double-sheathed box car 12833 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, "Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.”  A car card was made,  the final step to put a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

NP box car 12833 spotted at Wooden Container
Company.

NP 12833 spotted at Wooden Container Company.

Some Little Chicago industries and CNW Interchange
being pulled allowing NP 12833 to be seen.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog.  You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so.  Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one.  Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer