Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Modeling: April 2024

Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Shippers Car Line Corp. Tank Cars 17604 & 17669

I looked at two The Gould Company and one Tichy Train Group (Tichy) (ex-Gould) tanks cars kits, #4020, in the to build cabinet each time I looked for a new freight car build. I had ignored these kits as I thought they had no prototype. Recently I found out these kits with minor modifications could build into relatively accurate representation of “war emergency” class USG-A tank cars. I learned from a Richard Hendrickson (who sadly has passed) article published in Railmodel Journal (RMJ), October 1990 issue, that these tank cars were built as “war emergency” tank cars a quarter-century later when the World War I design for a standard 10,000 gallon tank car for the United States Railroad Administration (USRA) was finally put into production. Why? There was a shortage of tank cars during the early years of World II to move oil from the West to the East. In 1942 the War Production Board responded to this need by approving the construction of new tank cars.

From the article I also learned new specifications were drawn for the new tank cars. “Though adequate for the shipment of crude oil and refinery products, they did not meet the minimum standards for unrestricted ICC-103 class tank cars”. Therefore, the tank cars were assigned an emergency class used for wartime construction. One designated class for these “war emergency” tank cars was USG-A. In the Tichy prototype history in the kit instruction it reads, “Under the American Railroad Association, or ARA, these cars were class III, “Tank cars for General Service built after May 1, 1917.””

1937 Car Builders' Cyclopedia
(Click or tap on this image or any image to enlarge)

In 1942 and 1943 American Car & Foundry (AC&F) built class USG-A (ARA class III) tank cars. One group of these tank cars went to Shippers Car Line (SHPX), owned by AC&F, assigned to series 16000-17752. The 36 foot tank cars features included riveted construction, four horizontal courses, riveted tank on a standard AC&F underframe, two tank bands which at the ends were attached via bolts to turnbuckles, two safety valves, one on either side of the manhole on the dome, wood dome platforms, one on each side of the dome, side and end wood running boards (walkways) and drain valve on bottom in the center of the tank. These tanks cars rode on 50 Ton trucks. Photo of SHPX Tank Car 17520 appears in the RMJ, October 1990, article and a photo of 17561 appears in Tank Cars American Car & Foundry Company, 1865 to 1955 (Signature Press, 2003).

SHPX 17520
Courtesy of Steve Hile

I decided to build the two The Gould Company kits with the modifications needed to represent the Shippers Car Line (SHPX) tanks cars. The modifications I would have to make were as follows:

Relocate two safety valves to sides of manhole on dome
Bolsters needed new top plates made
Tank bands which on the ends attached to turnbuckles
On side sills an edge facing outward to better represent AC&F side sill
Ladders extended from handrails to dome
Install AB brakes
Replace kit parts with parts I felt were a better choice

I began the builds by assembling the underframes per very good kit instructions. The frame assembly required installing top and bottom frame plates, ends and side sills, bolsters, tank saddles, ratchet plate, running board brackets and running boards. The tank strap plates provided in the kit for tank bands to attach to are not used since turnbuckles as on the prototype replace them. I added the train line bent from .020 brass wire provided in the kit using the template in the instructions.

I drilled and tapped the couple pocket pads and bolster center plates for 2-56 screws. The coupler pockets with Kadee #148 couplers inserted had cover installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 3/16” screws and Accurail trucks with InterMountain 33 inch semi-scale .088 metal wheels, IRC 40052, were installed with Fastenal 2-56 x 1/4” screws. I replaced the kit trucks with Accurail trucks as the InterMountain axel length was a better fit in the Accurail trucks verses the kit trucks.

The tank assembly was next. The tank as the four course prototype has a bottom, two sides, top and ends. To the tank bottom I installed the kit provided weight with Permatex Silicone Clear Adhesive Sealant; however, prior to gluing the tank top and ends I checked the tank car weight finding I had to add two 1/4 ounce stick on tire weights to weight these cars to 3.6 ounces. Once the tank was glued together with MEK, the 54 inch tank dome was installed.

Kit and tire weights installed.

Tank cars assembled.

Relocation of the dome safety domes to match the prototype was next. Using a new single edge razor blade (SERB), I very carefully and slowly carved off the molded on safety valve bases on the domes. The safety bases were set aside and the sanding of the dome began. To sand the dome I used a small and large nail file followed by 3200, 4000, 8000, and 12000 grit sanding sticks. After sanding the carved off safety dome bases were located to the sides of the dome manhole and the safety valves provided in the kit added.

Dome safety valves relocated.

Now the rework of the bolsters and addition new top bolster plates to match the prototype. I cut and installed a trapezoid shaped bolster cover plate from .010 Evergreen styrene to fit at an angle between the running board and the tank saddle. The wide end of the trapezoid bolster plate was glued against the tank saddle and the narrow end to the running board. Archer rivets, double row from set AR88026, were applied to match look of prototype.

Bolster cover plates installed.

Now the tank bands were installed. Yarmouth Model Works etched tank bands, YMW 372, were used instead of the styrene strip provided in the kit to make the bands. Tichy #1101, .010 wire was cut for pins that were glued into one end of the Tichy #8021, turnbuckles and for pins glued onto the one end of the tank band with CA.

Mounting pins added to tank bands and trunbuckles.

A number 79 drill was used to drill holes at the end of the installed bolster plate where it met the running board to insert and glue the pin with turnbuckle. Once the glue for the four turnbuckles was setup the tank bands were installed. The pin on a tank band was inserted into a turnbuckle and glued. The tank band was then wrapped around the tank and glued making sure it would line up with the turnbuckle on the other side of the tank where it was cut at the turnbuckle and not glued yet. A Tichy .010 wire pin was then inserted into the turnbuckle facing the top of the tank and glued. The loose tank bank was then glued to the wire pin.

Note turnbuckle install on right side.

Tank bands installed.

With the tank bands installed the kit provided dome platforms and brackets were installed using prototype photo for placement. The brackets had the mounting pins on the back cut off in order to mount the dome running boards as on the prototype.

Done platform installed.

After the tank bands were installed the handrail stanchions in the kit were installed on sides. All holes for the handrail stanchions were drilled with a #79 drill as were the holes in the stanchions to make sure Detail Associate .019 diameter brass wire would slide though them easily. On the ends the plastic molded kit provided handrail, which was .022 thick with molded on stanchion, was not used. On the ends I had to make a stanchion that would accept the handrail from either side of the tank. The end stanchion was made by gluing two Tichy handrail stanchions next to each other. Prior to installing the two Tichy handrail stanchions, the mounts on the ends of the tank for the kit provided plastic handrail were carved off with a SERB.

While stanchions glue on installed stanchions setup, grab irons were bent from Tichy #1101, .010 diameter phosphor bronze wire (PBW) for the grab irons on the side and end sills, grab irons on both side of the tank dome and both grab irons on the sides of the tank followed by the fabrication of the handrails.

To fabricate handrails, Detail Associates #2506, .019 diameter brass wire was inserted into stanchions on sides with enough wire extended beyond tank side to be bent around tank end with a Xuron #498 wire bending plier and cut to length to fit into the handrail stanchion on the ends.

Grab irons and handrails installed.

Extending the ladders and installing the vertical brake shaft was done next. To extend the ladders above the handrails, ladders from Tichy Tank Car Detail Sets, #3007, containing matching ladders to the kit ladders, were used. I matched the rung spacing on the ladder portion below the handrail that enabled a rung below the dome platform to match the prototype; however, no rung in the space to the handrail below.

The vertical bake shaft was cut from Tichy #1102, .015 diameter PBW and installed. Install of the kit brake wheel followed.

Ladders extended and brake shaft and
brake wheel installed.

The tank details except for placard boards was finished so onto the underbody work.

Now to add the the outward facing edging on the side sills. I used .018 diameter round plastic gates (sprues) saved after kit parts removed. The gates were cut to length as needed and glued to the side sills with MEK to obtain the look of an outward edge as on the standard AC&F underframe.

Outward flange on side sill at bottom added.

Outward flange on side sill completed.

With tank modifications and upgrade parts installed the work on the underside was done. On the underside I began by cutting an extra running board support in the kit in half to make a bracket for mounting the air reservoir. To this bracket I added a platform for mounting the AB valve using a part from Tichy AB set #3013. With the bracket fabrication complete, brake components , Tichy AB set #3013, were installed. An air reservoir was installed on the underside on the made bracket and the AB valve on the top of the added platform. The brake cylinder was installed on the molded mount on the frame .

Bracket for air reservoir with platform added.

Top view of bracket platform installed for AB valve.

Brake components installed.

Following the AB brake components install, the remaining detail parts as follow were installed.

Brake cylinder lever, cut from Evergreen #8108, 1” x 8” strip styrene
Brake floating lever, cut from Evergreen #8106, 1” x 6” strip styrene
Brake levers hangers, plastic kit grab irons
Brake piping from air reservoir to AB valve, Tichy #1101, .010” dia. PBW
Brake pipe, brake cylinder to AB valve, Tichy #1106, .0125” dia. PBW
Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125” diameter PBW
Brake cylinder brake rod with chain support bracket made with half of the kit floating brake lever bracket that was cut in half.
Brake rod clevises, Tichy #8021, turnbuckles
Chain, A-Line black, 40 links per inch
Train line, was already installed with .020 brass wire in kit

Underbody details installed.

All that remained to have the tank cars ready for the paint shop was to install the placard boards.

Placard boards installed.

The build of the Shippers Car Line (SHPX) tank cars was finished enabling their move to the paint shop. Before moving the cars to the paint shop I reviewed two Champ Decals sets of Shippers Tank Car line, HT-71, and two Champ Decals sets of Tank Car Data, HD-13, I had on hand for lettering. And, I used the book United States, Canadian And Mexican Railroads Freight Tariff 300-H, effective September 30, 1955 (a reproduction) to choose active tank car numbers for my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company time frame of late spring 1955. Here I found numbers 17604 with a shell gallon capacity of 10100 and dome gallon capacity of 217 and 17669 with a shell gallon capacity of 10097 and dome gallon capacity of 217. The numbers I chose required cutting the numbers available in Champ Decals sets into individual numbers and applying the individual numbers one number at a time.

The tank car bodies were installed on paint stands with couplers taped with blue painters tape and tank cars were airbrushed with Vallejo Model Color Black 70.950. Once the paint coats were dry, I airbrushed car bodies with Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to provide a decal base. During the build, the trucks already had been hand painted Vallejo Model Air Black Grey RLM66, 71.055.

Cars airbrushed with Vallejo Model Color Black.

After drying overnight, decals were applied. Lettering including reporting marks, number and tank data came from Champ Decals, set HT-71. Capacity and Lt. Wt. data came from Champ Decals, set HD-13. Car Builders Insignia (AC&F) from Champ Decals, set HD-30W. Repack Data from Smokebox Graphics, set DFO587. The tank data is not accurate for the car. I am not aware of any decal set that has been produced to date that would have the correct tank data for an “emergency” class USG-A tank car. I used photos of SHPX Tank Car 17520 and 17561 as a guide to apply decals.

Decals were soaked off in distilled water and applied to the car body where MicroScale Micro Set had been applied with a brush. After the decal was applied in the Micro Set and positioned the edges had MicroScale Micro Sol applied. Any excess solution was sucked away with the torn edge of a paper towel. Again when dry, car body was airbrushed with Vallejo Gloss Varnish, 70.510, to better hide edges of decals and protect decals during handling.

Decals applied.

Again when dry, the car body was airbrushed with Model Master Acryl Flat Clear, #4636, to protect decals and provide a flat finish for weathering when applied.

One more step before putting SPHX tank cars 17604 and 17669 in service was to weather the cars with Pan Pastels. Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 was applied lightly on the entire car body and again over safety appliances on car body with a makeup brush. For the rust on tank bands and rivet lines Burnt Sienna Shade 740.3 was applied with a micro brush. And, Neutral Grey 820.5 was lightly applied with a micro brush to the walkways, especially the edges.

Car weathered with Pan Pastels.

War emergency SPHX tank cars 17604 and 17669, class USG-A were ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.” A car card was made for each tank car, the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

Tank Cars 17604 and 17669 in train
being made up to move to Northfield, Minnesota.

Tank Car 17604 in train being made up in
Chestnut Street Yard, Minneapolis, Minnesota.

Tank Car 17669 in train being made up in
Chestnut Street Yard, Minneapolis, Minnesota.

Tank Cars 17604 and 17669 in train
being made up to move to Northfield, Minnesota.

I want to say, “Thank You” to Steve Hile for providing photo of SPHX 17520, RMJ issue with the Richard Hendrickson article (see above) and suggestions to improve the look of the standard AC&F underframe. A “Thank You” to George Toman for providing copies of the Richard Hendrickson articles in RMJ. A “Thank You “ to Bob Wilcox for finding and providing scan of Richard Hendrickson article, Part 2, in RMJ April 1991. The Part 2 article had no further information on Shippers Car Line Tank Cars.

Thank You for taking time to read my blog. You can share a comment in the section below if you choose to do so. Please sign your comment with your name if you choose to leave one. All comments are reviewed and approved before they appear. Please share the blog link with other model railroaders.

Lester Breuer

Wednesday, April 10, 2024

General American Transportation Tank Car GATX 2477

After building several box cars again I wanted a change. When looking at my inventory I decided I would build one of the resin kits. Sunshine Models, resin kit 87.2, a General American Transportation Corporation (GATX) Type 30, 8,000 gallon tank car was selected for my build. The kit came with a color photo and decals to letter a GATX 8,000 Tank Car leased to the Hercules Powder Company. Since I already have a Tangent and Life-Like Proto 2000 tank car with Hercules Powder Company lettering in the car fleet of the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, I decided the lettering would be changed to a simplified GATX lettering scheme.

GATX 11144 Type 30 Tank Car
Sunshine Models in kit 87.2
(click or tap on this or any image to enlarge)

The prototype Type 30 design was introduced in the late 1920s and used for builds into the 1940s. The Sunshine Models Preview sheet for the Type 30 Tank Cars kits stated, “the design featured a 26’ 8 1/2” distance over truck centers and 36’ 8 1/2” over striker. Various tanks from 8,000 to 12,500 gallons were applied to the underframe.

The visual characteristic of the Type 30 design was a fame with a more open appearance. There was no side sill from the bolster to the end sill and only a modest end sill. The frame featured massive bolsters that bore the weight of the tank and included a poling pocket in the end.” One type of truck these cars used was similar to the ARA cast side frame design.

A photo of a Type 30 Tank Car numbered 1928, in series 1800 - 2899, can be found in the 1931 Car Builders’ Cyclopedia (Simmons-Boardman Publishing Company, 1931). A photo of the same car is in Train Shed Cyclopedia Tank Cars 1922-1943 No. 12 (Newton K. Gregg/Publisher, 1973). And, photos of Type 30 tank cars can be found in Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual Volume two: Tank Cars, (Speedwitch Media, 2006, 2007, 2008).

GATX Type 30 Tank Car 1928
1931 Car Builders' Cyclopedia

The build began with the assembly of the underframe. Bolsters, rivet plates on the bottom of center sill, “V” shaped angle iron crossties and modest end sills were installed. Cast coupler pockets on frame were cut off with UMM-USA saw (razor blade with fine saw teeth). Coupler pocket pads and bolster center plates were drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws. Kadee #262 narrow coupler boxes with Kadee #148 couplers inserted were installed with Fastenal 2-56 - 3/16” screws. Trucks with InterMountain 33” semi-scale .088 metal wheels sets inserted were installed with Fasten 2-56 - 1/4” screws.

Underframe underside view.

The bottom rivet plates were installed on the center sill. The walkway (running board) was glued to pads on end of bolsters. The walkway was not cast large enough and as a result did not sit on the pads at ends of the bolsters as shown in instruction sheet. I had to cut it apart on the ends to fit and glue it on pads of bolster ends as in instructions photos position. The gap created on the ends was filled with scrap styrene and MEK Goop (MEK with plastic melted in it). Wood tank saddles (cast in resin) were installed on top of the bolsters at the center sill.

Underframe top view.

Next a train line, Tichy Train Group (Tichy) #1114, .020 phosphor bronze wire (PBW) was installed in two pieces. Brake components, Cal-Scale brake cylinder (kit) and air reservoir (kit) were installed. A resin mount for the bake cylinder (kit) was used and half a “V” shaped angle iron crosstie was used for the air reservoir mount. I replaced the kit AB valve with a resin Sunshine Models one from my spare parts box that was glued to underside of the walkway (running board).

Brake components and train line installed.

At this time with the tank halves put together, NOT glued. The tank drain was cut off and set aside. The square tank saddles from the lower half were carved off. Sand paper was wrapped around the tank and run through tank saddles to seat the tank and the center tank anchor touches the center sill.

Underframe sanded to seat the tank.

Now the tank halves were taken apart to enlarge the opening in the top half of the plastic tank for the cast dome. In my opinion, this step of the build was the most difficult. I did not do this step with a hobby knife as suggested. I mounted the top half of the tank upside down in a “V” block and drilled through the very thick heavy flash (called molding lead in instructions) with a 1/2 twist drill mounted in a shop drill press (not a hobby drill press) after having found and marked the center. Then I continued to enlarge the dome hole to the proper size to fit the cast dome with a burr bit mounted in my shop drill press. I was not able to get a perfect hole to fit the cast dome. So with the dome installed protruding 18” from the top of the tank, it was glued from the inside with gel CA. The minor imperfections in the hole around the tank were filled with MEK Goop. After the MEK set around the dome, the rivet line collar (cast in resin in the kit) was installed later around the dome.

With the dome installed in tank upper half set for assembly, the car was weighted with stick on tire weights installed in the inside of the lower tank half and the tank halves were glued together. The tank was positioned on the underframe being careful to center tank and gel CA used to attach it to underframe at center mount and ends.

Tank done installed on tank.

The tank was almost ready for adding details. The molded on tank bands had to be carved off to allow install of etched tank bands. The kit instructions tell you to create two tank bands of the brass strap, Tichy turnbuckles and wire provided in the kit providing no photos or additional instructions on how to do it. I cut a 1/4” wire from supplied wire and glued it into one end of a turnbuckle. I drilled a hole in the bolster and glued the wire with turnbuckle to the bolster. Rather than use the kit brass strap for the tank band, I used left over tank bands from a Sunshine X-3 tank car kit which had fine cut ends that were inserted into the turnbuckle and glued. I could only use one fine cut end of the tank band glued into turnbuckle on one side of tank due to length around tank. On the other side I had to cut the tank band to length and create the fine section to go into the turnbuckle. I made the fine end section with a Xuron #9180 etched parts cutter.

Tank Band with fine end to fit into turnbuckle.

With the tank bands installed the remaining details were installed as follows:

Grab irons on walkway ends, tank ends and dome, Tichy #1101, .010 PBW.
Grab irons on tank ends and dome formed with wire bending Xuron pliers.
Grab iron unused holes on tank sides filled with MEK Goop.
Dome platform brackets and platform provided in kit installed.
Handrail brackets/stanchions in kit installed on tank sides and ends.
Handrail stanchions, brass Precision Scale, for sides different from those on ends.
Handrail stanchions holes drilled out with #76 drill to receive .019 brass wire handrails.
Handrails Detail Associates #2506, .019 brass wire.
Ladders in kit installed.
Brake vertical shaft cut from Tichy .015 PBW
Brake wheel from parts box like kit brake wheel lost during build.
Placard boards in kit installed.
Uncoupling levers, bent from Tichy #1106, .0125 PBW
Uncoupling lever brackets, Detail Associates #2206, eye bolts in kit

Tank details installed.

To fabricate handrails, Detail Associates .019 brass wire was inserted into stanchions on sides with enough wire extended beyond tank side to be bent around tank end with a Xuron #498 wire bending plier and cut to length to fit into the handrail stanchion on the ends.

Handrails bent around tank end and cut to
enter into side of end tank stanchion.

After the above details were installed the sill steps were made. The kit instructions stated to use kit provided A-Line #29000 sill steps and add a step bent from bass strap/strip in kit. I chose to make the sill steps using Yarmouth Model Works etched double sill steps I folded and installed. Once installed the two side braces were cut from Details Associates 10 x 30 flat bar stock and installed. The Yarmouth Model Works Type 30 double sill step would be the best choice; however, I did not have any in parts inventory.

Sill step installed.

Sill steps installed.

With tank detail finished, the underframe details were installed as follows:

brake levers, Cal-Scale in kit
Brake lever hangers, grab iron in kit
Piping air reservoir to AB Valve, Tichy #1101, .010 PBW
Pipe back of brake cylinder to AB Valve, Tichy #1106, .0125 PBW
Brake rods, Tichy #1106, .0125 PBW
Brake rod clevises, formed with MEK Goop
Brake rod with chain bracket, scrap black styrene
Brake rod chain, A-Line #29219 black 40 links per inch
Dirt collector, Tichy AB brake set #3013
Dirt collector pipe tee into train line, created with MEK Goop
Tank drain, resin in kit (one removed earlier from tank bottom)

Underframe details installed.

The build of General American Tank Line (GATX) was finished enabling its move to the paint shop. Before moving the car to the paint shop I reviewed the the new and used GATX decal sets I had on hand to choose a number for the car. I had already decided to use a simplified GATX lettering scheme without lettering for a leased customer. Choosing the number proved not to be an easy task. And, finding a photo of a GATX Tank with a simplified paint scheme difficult.

The only photo I could find of a Type 30 tank car with a simple GATX lettering scheme was GATX 1928. I looked the number up in January 1953 Official Railway Equipment Register (ORER), a reproduction (National Model Railroad Association, 1996). I found number 1928 was assigned by GATX to series 1800 to 2899. I had to hope most tank cars in this series were a Type 30. After review of the numbers in the used and and new decal sets I had on hand, I knew car number 2477 could be used for a car number. I checked United States, Canadian And Mexican Railroads Freight Tariff 300-H, effective September 30, 1955 (a reproduction). Here I found GATX 2477 was a good number with a shell gallon capacity of 8059 and dome gallon capacity of 265.

Having decided on a number 2477 it was off to the paint shop for paint and lettering. In the paint shop the car body was cleaned with makeup cotton swabs dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol and mounted on paint stand for painting and couplers taped with blue painters tape.

Before the car color was applied, GATX tank car was airbrushed with Vallejo Surface Primer Black 70.602 for a primer coat. While the primer coat was drying the trucks were hand painted Vallejo Model Air Black Grey RLM66, 71.055. When the car body was dry and still installed on the paint stand with couplers taped with blue painters tape, the tank car was airbrushed with Vallejo Model Color Black 70.950. Once the paint coat was dry, I airbrushed car body with Vallejo Gloss Medium 70.470 to provide a decal base.

Tank Car airbrushed with Vallejo Surface Primer.

Tank Car airbrushed with Vallejo Gloss Medium.

After drying overnight, decals were applied. Decals I used were from used and new GATX tank car decal sets. The reporting marks, number and tank data came from a used GATX decal set from a prior kit , the CAPY and LT WT from a new North American Tank Car Champ HT-184 decal set. I did not have enough 7s for the end numbers in the GATX used set. I found and used matching 7s from a Grace tank car set. I had reporting marks; however, not numbers to add reporting marks and number to the underframe as on the prototype. I used photos of GATX Tank Car 1928 and photos received as a guide to apply decals.

Decals applied.

One more step before putting GATX Tank 2477 in service was to weather the car with Pan Pastels. Pan Pastels Paynes Grey Extra Dark 840.1 was applied lightly on the roof, car body and again over safety appliances on car body with a makeup brush. For the rust on tank bands and rivet lines Burnt Sienna Shade 740.3 was applied with a micro brush. And, Netural Grey 820.5 was lightly applied with a micro brush to the walkways, especially the edges.

GATX 2477 weathered.

General American Tank Car GATX 2477 was ready for service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company, The Lakeland Route, “Serving today, Shaping tomorrow.” A car card was made for GATX 2477, the final step to put the a car in service on the Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company Railroad.

GATX 2477 spotted at Meyer Oil in Northfield, Minn.

I want to say, “Thank You” to David Thompson who did find a photo of a Type 30 8,000 gallon Tank Car numbered 12509. A future project will be to renumber GATX 2477 with this number. A “Thank You” to Nelson Moyer for a photo of GATX 24218, a 8,000 gallon Tank Car with a simply GATX lettering scheme that has an open frame and bolster design used by Standard Tank Car with a tank manufactured by Pennsylvania Tank Car as has two safety valves located on opposite sides of the dome. A “Thank You “ to Steve Hile for a photo of GATX 8787, a 10,000 gallon Type 30 tank car with a simply GATX lettering scheme.

Lester Breuer